- How to Use Borax for Getting Rid of Moss
- How to Get Rid of Green Moss on Tree Trunks & Cedar Fences
- Home Remedy to Kill Moss
- The Best Way to Get Rid of Moss Between Patio Bricks
- How to Grow Grass Where Moss is Growing
- The Best Lawn Fertilizers for Moss
- How to Make Moss Bags
- How to Get Rid of Moss on Concrete & Driveways
- How to Stop Moss From Growing in Sidewalk and Path Cracks
- How to Kill Moss on Asphalt
- How to Kill Moss on a Lawn Naturally
- How to Remove Moss from Patio Brick
- How to Keep Reindeer Moss Green
- How to Kill Ground Moss
- How to Kill Moss in a Garden
- Natural Moss Removal
- Home Remedies for Lawn Moss
- How to Identify Lawn Moss
- How to Kill Moss on Sandy Soil
- How Do I Kill Moss Growing on My Brick Sidewalk?
- How to Kill Iron Moss
- How to Remove Dead Moss From a Lawn
Moss is a simple plant with no root system that grows in a dense mat when there is an abundance of moisture and very little light. When moss grows against boulders, it can be considered a very attractive plant for landscaping; however it can be undesirable when it grows against decorative stone or brick. Fortunately, you can easily kill moss with a solution made of water and sodium borate, more commonly known as borax.
Mix ¼ cup of borax with a gallon of water in a gallon bucket.
Dip a scrub brush into the solution.
Work the liquid borax solution into the moss with the scrub brush until the moss is saturated.
Repeat as needed until moss dies and turns brown.
Peel dead moss up from its bed and discard.
Turn the hose on and place your thumb partially over the opening so that the water comes out in a forceful spray. Then spray the green moss until it is forced off of the tree trunk and fence.
Fill a bucket with warm water and 1/2 cup of vinegar per gallon of water. Dip a scrub brush in the solution and scrub off any remaining green moss from the tree trunk and fence.
Spray the area with the hose once again.
Increase the light and air circulation. Moss thrives in dark moist conditions. If possible, trim back the branches of surrounding trees to allow more sunlight in. If an adjacent building is preventing the area from enjoying more sunlight, simply re-treat the area as soon as the moss crops up again.
Rake the soil under which the moss is growing. This will break up the moss and aerate the soil beneath it, creating an environment inhospitable to moss.
Select a fertilizer that uses iron sulfate, and apply it to the lawn. Compounds such as this will kill moss, as well as causing grass to grow and crowd out moss.
Mix a solution of dish detergent and water and pour into a spray bottle. Spray the moss with this solution daily until it begins to yellow and die.
Pour vinegar into a spray bottle and spray on moss. Vinegar is acidic in pH. Acidic liquids kill moss.
Prune vegetation around the moss so that it receives sunlight. Moss cannot live under sunny conditions.
Scrub the moss with a stiff-bristled brush. Moss has no roots so it comes off easily.
Make a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water in a bucket.
Scrub the bricks with the chlorine bleach solution to inhibit future moss growth.
Prune overhead tree limbs, using a pruning saw. Remove limbs in such a way to cast sunlight pockets on the soil. Light reaching the ground will begin to deter moss growth.
Run a lawn aerator over the ground where the moss is growing. The lawn aerator will improve soil drainage. The soil plugs left on top of the ground will break down to mix the soil together.
Test the soil where the moss is growing. Collect samples from several areas of the lawn. Take the soil sample to your local agricultural extension service for analysis.
Spread the proper lawn fertilizer to the area based upon the soil test results. Follow the fertilizer packaging for application rates.
Broadcast a shaded-type grass seed over the moss area. Rake the seeds into the ground.
Irrigate the grass seed according to the seed package labeling with the garden hose and sprinkler. Do not overwater or allow puddles to form on the soil surface.
Find the locations in your yard where moss has grown; if the lawn surrounding the areas is bare ground with thinning grass, your fertilizer should offer substantial nutrition to that area. Use a fertilizer that is a timed release of nitrogen, such as a 10-6-6 fertilizer, to feed your grass and discourage the moss growth.
Damp, Shady Areas
Choosing a moss prevention fertilizer is easiest in a damp, shady area of your lawn. The best type of fertilizer to use in the shady portions of your lawn is one that is based on an iron compound, not nitrogen. Iron fertilizers come in two basic forms--iron sulfate and chelated iron--and each are equally effective in inhibiting moss growth. The iron compound fertilizers are most commonly found in liquid format, and will specify that they are a soluble iron fertilizer (typically 1-3-1).
Excessive Moss Coverage
Extraction of the moss is an option if the moss has overwhelmed a certain area of your yard. The extraction process is more commonly referred to asde-thatching, and it will generally remove 75% of the moss in your yard. After de-thatching the moss infested area apply a balanced multi-purpose fertilizer (such as a 5-10-10) for a healthy, beautiful lawn.
Cut a piece of cotton fabric into a rectangle that when folded end-to-end is the moss bag size you want.
Lay the cotton fabric rectangle onto a black trash bag.
Cut the trash bag to the same size and shape as the cotton fabric. Use sharp scissors.
Attach the cotton fabric and plastic bag rectangles. Place them back-to-back, and then use a sharp sewing needle and thread to sew around the perimeter of the rectangles. Sew both sides, and leave open what will become the moss bag's top.
Flip the moss bag inside out. This will place the plastic lining inside the bag.
Prevent the bag from fraying. Do this by folding down the edges of the moss bag's opening and sewing around the opening.
Rake moss from the concrete and driveway area by using a back and forth motion with a flexible metal rake. Moss is easily raked away because of its shallow root structure.
Power-wash the concrete and driveway surface using an outside water faucet and water hose. The greater the water pressure the better; however, in most cases a normal outdoor water hose and faucet is sufficient to remove any small remaining areas of moss and organic matter.
Trim back overhanging trees, branches and shrubs to increase sunlight on the area using outdoor trimmers or a small saw. Moss prefer shady, moist environments; therefore to prevent the future growth of moss, you want the area to be dry and sunny.
Clean the concrete and driveway surface regularly using a rake or broom. Moss spores need a small amount of organic matter on the surface to take root. By keeping the surface clean, moss spores have no place to mature.
Use a metal or plastic scraper to scrape up the above-ground moss that already exists. If you can use your tool to reach into and in between cracks and seams to pull out the moss roots, that's even better. Dump the bits of dug-up moss into the garbage, not into a compost pile.
Create a mixture of equal parts tap water and household bleach in a large plastic cup. Stir the liquids together well with a spoon.
Slowly pour the bleach mixture over the treated areas, allowing it to absorb down into the cracks and crevices. If necessary, mix another small batch of the bleach mixture to treat all of the moss-prone areas.
Monitor the area closely for the next few weeks, applying additional coats of diluted bleach if you see the beginnings of any new moss spores.
Fill your garden sprayer with 80 percent water and 20 percent bleach. Spray the mossy area on the asphalt surface thoroughly with the water and bleach solution. Make sure you spray the moss during a dry week to allow the moss to absorb the solution fully.
Wait three to four days before removing the dead moss from the asphalt surface. The moss should be a golden brown color when dead. Respray any moss that was not killed after the first application of the bleach solution. Use a shop broom or pressure washer to remove the old moss from the surface.
Pull up stubborn moss with your hands. Use a pair of gardening gloves to gain a better grip on the moss and to avoid getting your hands dirty.
Pull moss out by hand, starting with the areas of highest moss concentration. Wear gardening gloves while removing it. Place it into plastic trash bags for disposal.
Fill a spray bottle with 1 cup water and 1 cup white vinegar. Shake well.
From a distance of 6 inches, spray areas where moss has been growing with the vinegar solution. Saturate those areas with the solution.
Allow each area to dry, without rinsing it off. When the area has dried, spread old newspaper over it. Weigh down the newspaper with bricks or other weights.
Leave the newspaper in place for two weeks. After two weeks, the moss should be completely eliminated from your lawn. If you notice new moss growing, re-apply vinegar solution and re-cover with newspaper until moss no longer appears.
Use a hose with a pressure nozzle to wash off as much moss as possible.
Use a bristle brush to scrub and loosen moss. Then reuse the hose to wash it away.
Mix a 1 to 10 ratio of bleach and water. Test it in an area that cannot be seen to ensure that it doesn't discolor the brick. Wait a week to see if there is any change. If it doesn't harm the brick, proceed.
Pour the bleach mixture into a spray bottle, and spray it on moss that hasn't come off with the other methods. Scrub with a brush to work it into the pores. Allow it to sit and soak, then rinse off.
Fill the spray bottle with water.
Put 1 tsp. of buttermilk powder for every liter of water in the spray bottle.
Lightly mist the reindeer moss with the spray every morning.
Mix 5 oz. of iron sulfate and 4 gallons of tap water. Copper sulfate will also work well.
Pour the mixture into a sprayer and apply an even layer over the area where moss is growing. The 4 gallons of this solution will cover 1,000 square feet of area.
Wait one to two days for the moss to die back completely. Rake the area to remove dead moss and spores. Dispose of the moss properly, do not add it to a compost pile or anywhere else in your yard.
Apply 5 to 10 lbs. of ground limestone to the treated area. This will inactivate the sulfate and make growing conditions better for other foliage.
Dilute the moss killing product as directed on the package and mix in a 20-gallon pressurized spray can. Wash your hands after handling the solution to avoid chemical residues and, in this case, stains on your skin.
Spray a thin layer of the chemical on moss in late winter or early spring before it has had time to spread.
Rake moss out of the garden once it is dead. Avoid raking it across the entire garden to prevent spores from spreading.
Sow some groundcover seeds over the area that the moss covered. Some examples are herbs such as dill, mint or parsley or flowers such as lantana or alyssum.
Cover the seeds with garden soil and keep the ground moist until the seeds establish.
Pour 1/2 gallon of water into a bucket.
Add 1/2 gallon of bleach and mix the two together. Bleach is powerful enough to kill moss and any other type of vegetation.
Pour the bleach solution over the moss you want to kill. Be careful not to get it on any other plants or flowers.
Wait until you see the moss turn yellowish-brown to rake it up, which should happen about four to six hours after applying the bleach solution. Throw the raked-up moss into the trash for disposal.
Perform a soil test on the soil where the moss was growing. If it reveals a pH below 6, your soil is too acidic. To prevent the moss from growing back, add lime. The Maryland Cooperative Extension recommends a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.8 to keep moss from becoming a problem.
If necessary, remove tree limbs that may be overly shading the area where the moss grew. Allowing light to the area will keep moss from growing back.
Remove lawn moss from growth areas by hand-pulling, starting with the area of highest concentration of moss.
Dispose of the moss in a plastic trash bag.
Mix one cup water with one cup white vinegar in an empty, clean spray bottle.
From a distance of six inches, apply the vinegar solution directly to the areas where moss has been growing in your yard.
Leave the solution in place to dry; do not rinse it off.
Place old newspaper over the tops of the areas where moss has been growing, and weigh down the paper with bricks or weights.
Leave the weighted-down newspaper in place for two weeks. When the moss has been eliminated completely, you may remove the newspaper and dispose of in a plastic trash bag.
Dig a patch of the suspected moss up with a garden shovel. Digging should be easy if the moss is true moss. Look at the underside of the patch. If you do not see any roots, you are likely looking at a patch of lawn moss.
Look at the patch you dug up and see if there are any flowers or seeds. If there are, you are not looking at a patch of moss. Moss does not need a flower or seed to reproduce.
Examine the patch for lobed or segmented leaves that have veins. Lawn moss will not have either of these. Moss will simply be the clumping together of tiny little soft green plants. Together they will form what is called a mat.
Measure the height of the suspected moss. True lawn moss grows low to the ground and will not grow higher than 4 inches.
Rake moss until it comes up in patches from your soil and discard.
Rototill soil to a depth of 8 inches.
Spread soil amendments such as humus, compost and peat moss over soil to a depth of 3 inches.
Rototill the soil again to turn soil amendments into the soil. This will improve the structure of the soil.
Flatten the soil with a rake and spread grass seed over the soil. Fertilize with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer that is formulated to help seeds start.
Water well. Keep ground as moist as a wrung out sponge for up to three weeks to help seeds germinate Then gradually back off watering to once weekly.
Combine 1 part household bleach with 5 parts cool tap water. Pour the bleach solution into a spray bottle that is only used for this purpose.
Spray the bleach solution onto the moss-affected areas of the brick. Avoid getting bleach on the neighboring desirable vegetation. Spray the moss daily until it is dead.
Rinse neighboring vegetation with water after each bleach treatment. Rinsing dilutes any bleach spills and helps minimize damage to plants.
Power wash the brick walkway once all the moss is dead to remove the dead moss from the bricks.
Pour apple cider vinegar into a spray bottle.
Mist or spray the moss with the vinegar.
Continue to spray moss daily until it dies and turns brown.
Remove moss from your landscape by "combing" it with a cultivating fork until the moss detaches from the surface. Discard dead moss.
Prune back any plants that shade the mossy area so that it receives more sunlight. This will prevent moss from returning.
Put on a pair of garden gloves. This is especially important if you used a chemical to kill your moss.
Rake your dead moss into a pile. This is easily done if you begin at one end of your lawn, and work your way to the other end. You could rake the pile from left to right, or from back to front.
Use a shovel to lift up the dead moss, and toss it into a trash bag for disposal.
Add new grass seed to the bare ground where the moss use to be. You can use your hands to do this if the area is small. If you have a larger area, use a seed spreader.