- How to Plant Japanese Millet
- How to Prune Japanese Aucuba
- How to Care for the Shishigashira Japanese Maple
- Winter Care for a Japanese Maple Tree
- Traditional Japanese Plants
- Can I Plant a Japanese Maple Close to the House?
- How to Take Care of Potted Japanese Maples
- Japanese Garden Facts
- How to Plant Japanese Maple Trees in Kansas
- How to Fertilize Japanese Red Maples
- How to Kill Japanese Grass
- How to Protect Japanese Maples in the Winter
- How to Winterize a Japanese Maple
Japanese millet (Echinochloa frumentaceae) is a grass crop that used for human, livestock and wildlife food. It is one of the fastest growing types of millet and is adaptable to wet or dry areas. Wildlife watchers and duck hunters like millet because it draws in feeding animals late in the summer season. Home gardeners plant it in wild gardens or along the edges of managed wetlands to prevent soil erosion while attracting animals.
Drain the water and let the soil dry for a few weeks if you are planting on a flooded wetland area.
Till or plow out your field so the soil is even and fluffy. Break up any dirt clumps and remove stones and debris. If you need to boost nutrients, incorporate amendments such as a high-nitrogen fertilizer or composted manure into the soil, mixing it in while tilling. The soil acidity should be a pH of 5.5 to 7.5.
Rake the area flat to get rid of large humps and pits. For large areas, use heavier equipment, such as a cultipacker pulled by a yard tractor.
Broadcast the Japanese millet seed evenly by hand over the plowed soil. Use an automatic broadcaster or grain driller for large fields. Spread it at a rate of about 25 to 30 lbs. of seed per acre. The best time to seed is in summer when the soil temperature is above 65 degrees.
Cover the Japanese millet seeds loosely with about 1 to 2 inches of soil. Use the rake on small patches or a cultipacker or corrugated roller pulled by a yard tractor. The seeds should germinate quickly and do not need water if the soil is slightly moist.
Flood the planting field when the Japanese millet plants have reached over 6 inches tall if you are planting a wetland area. Be sure the leaves are above the water level. The millet matures 45 to 60 days after seeding.
Look at the Japanese aucuba from all angles to establish what parts need to be pruned.
Sterilize a lopper. A lopper is a long-handled pruner with a curved cutting surface. The lopper can be sterilized in one part bleach to nine parts water.
Reach with the lopper through the bush to the base of the branch to be cropped. Place the cutting surface as close to the shrub base as possible.
Clip the branch to be pruned. Try to leave the rounded area where the branch attaches to the trunk or larger branch to avoid prolonged shrub healing.
Step back and look at how the shape of the shrub has changed and continue pruning until the shrub is the desired shape.
Water the soil under the Shishigashira Japanese Maple well until the ground is damp to an 8- to 10-inch depth. Repeat watering once per week for the first two years after planting. In year three and beyond, water only during drought or at the height of summer.
Spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch, such as chopped leaves or pine straw, around the base of the tree to help retain moisture near the roots. Extend the mulch circle to a width of 2 feet.
Wait until the tree is one year old and spread an all-purpose, granular fertilizer to the soil under the tree extending out to 1 foot beyond the branches. Use the amount specified by the fertilizer manufacture.
Prune off any dead or diseased limbs in the early spring months. Use a pruning saw and make the cuts as close to the trunk as possible. The Shishigashira Japanese Maple does not require pruning to shape or encourage budding.
Examine the tree limbs and foliage regularly during the spring and summer months for signs of insects such as borers, mites, scale and aphids. If insect activity is detected, spray the tree thoroughly with an insecticide until it drips off the leaves.
Add a 5-inch layer of mulch 3 inches from the trunk of the tree, spreading it 1 foot past the drip line (the tips of the widest branches).
Water heavily one week prior to the first frost. Withhold water from the Japanese maple after the first hard freeze.
Wrap the young Japanese maple with burlap or other protective material for the first three winters after planting.
Remove snow from the top of the Japanese maple as it accumulates. Do not attempt to remove any ice that may be coating the tree underneath the snow.
Moss is known in Japan as "koke." It grows in abundance all over Japan. Moss is used as a ground cover and frequently appears in traditional Japanese gardens. In some cases, moss is the central theme of a Japanese garden. These gardens are known as "moss gardens" (or koke-dera in Japanese). Moss is intended to bring on a feeling of softness when used in these gardens.
Japanese maples (also known as Acer palmatums) are staples in traditional Japanese gardens. Japanese maples originate in Japan, and also exist in Korea and China. Japanese gardens often use the traditional green maple trees, as opposed to other more colorful varieties. The slow-growing trees are small and deciduous, and can grow to be anywhere between 15 and 25 feet in height. In terms of shape, the trees tend to be irregular or rounded.
Bamboo is a type of perennial evergreen that is part of the Poaceae family. Bamboo is common as an accent in traditional Japanese gardens. Bamboo is a woody plant that grows rapidly. The plant generally does not flower, and if it does, it is highly unpredictable. The plants frequently appear in botanical gardens. These plants thrive in soil that is well-drained and fertile, and are more prevalent in gardens located in warmer regions of Japan, because they require warm temperatures for successful growth.
Japanese maple trees do not have roots that are deep or invasive, notes the UC Davis Master Gardener program, so they may be planted closer to the house than many trees. The exact distance depends on how wide the specific Japanese maple variety grows.
Plant your maple in a large container with well-draining potting soil that does not contain slow-release fertilizers. James suggests using glazed ceramic pots or foam pots, because clay pots dry out too quickly.
Select a site for your pot with at least six hours of sun. Avoid a spot that receives strong afternoon sun, which can cause leaf scorch.
Water weekly, and water more often during a drought. Japanese maples are only moderately drought tolerant. Drainage is important; never allow the roots to sit in water. Place 1 to 2 inches of mulch below the tree's canopy to retain moisture.
Use only water-soluble fertilizers at half strength in the spring and summer. Slow-release fertilizers will burn the leaves because these trees are not heavy feeders, according to James.
Train the trunks and branches so they will not touch each other, according to the University of Florida Extension. Remove branches with embedded bark (growing in one of the tree's crotches) to keep the branch from later splitting the tree.
Japanese gardens are landscaping designs made of sand and stone, and they traditionally adorn the outside of Japanese Buddhist temples. The monks do not meditate in the gardens, as is often depicted in the Western world, and professional gardeners tend to the gardens to keep them intact, according to the "Journal of Japanese Gardening." The term 'Japanese Zen Garden' was first mentioned in 1935 by Loraine Kuck, a Western writer, although the Japanese do not refer to them as such.
There are three main types of Japanese gardens -- Tsukiyama, Karesansui, and Chaniwa. Tsukiyama gardens are the recreation or natural scenery, and include mini hills, streams and flowers; these gardens are composed in China as well. Karensansui Japanese gardens are abstract representations of nature, and includes sand, gravel and rocks, and Chaniwa gardens are often the site of tea ceremonies, and include a tea house and decorative stepping stones.
If you want to include a Japanese garden in your own landscape, including the correct elements can give the impression of balance. For instance, Karensansui Japanese gardens don't include greenery, but moss sometimes grows on or between the stones and can be left there to adorn the garden. Also, when including the stones in a Japanese garden, they must be stones that are shaped by nature to give the garden authentic character.
Choose a location for the Japanese maple tree in sun or shade and any type of soil.
Dig a hole for the Japanese maple tree that's equally deep and two to three times as wide as the tree's rootball. Remove any rocks, sticks, weeds and roots from the hole.
Remove the Japanese maple tree from its container. Massage the rootball to break it apart. Check the roots to see if any are tangled or circled. Unwind and untangle these roots gently.
Place the Japanese maple sapling into the hole at the same depth as it was planted in the container. Spread the roots out by hand. Check to ensure the tree is planted straight and fill in the hole with soil.
Water the newly planted Japanese maple tree until the soil becomes saturated. Apply to the soil near the base of the tree a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch.
Clear away any mulch from the base of the Japanese red maple. Use the rake to loosen the top 1 inch of soil from the base of the tree to 1 foot further than the tree’s drip line (the tips of the widest branches of the tree).
Don your gloves and mask. Fertilizer particles are tiny and easily ingested.
Sprinkle the fertilizer over the raked area, according to the rate suggested on the package for the age and size of your Japanese red maple tree, and use the gardening fork to lightly mix it in with the top 1 inch of soil.
Water the fertilized area until the soil is moist.
Spread fresh mulch over the fertilized area, keeping it 2 inches away from the Japanese red maple’s trunk.
Cut back the Japanese grass with a weed whacker to interrupt the growing process. Because Japanese grass is not perennial, if you cut it back to the soil level in the late summer, you may succeed in killing the plant permanently without any other steps necessary.
Apply Glyphosate to the Japanese grass on a sunny and warm day in late summer. Choose a day with calm winds so the Glyphosate does not drift to other planting areas. Cut back the Japanese grass to just above the ground level with the weed whacker or pruning shears, and thoroughly saturate the growing area with the Glyphosate spray.
Pull the Japanese grass up from the soil while wearing gardening gloves. Pull the plants up from the soil by grasping them at the crown. Place the pulled plants directly into the garbage bag to dispose of them. Continue to pull the Japanese grass as you find it throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Winterizing Japanese Maples
Pluck off any dead leaves on the branches.
Water the roots thoroughly before the first frost to ensure that the leaf buds do not dry out during the winter.
Cover the base of the Japanese Maple with a thick layer of organic mulch such as straw, bark, shredded leaves or composted manure to protect it from the cold.
Apply Antidesiccants, a compound applied to reduce dehydration and prevent drying. Although not universally accepted, this option does generally eliminate the need for wrapping.
Wrap the tree with a burlap shroud or burlap screen. There are two ways to do this. For very new trees, wrap the burlap from the base of the truck to the second or third branch. Alternatively, put stakes in the ground around the Japanese Maple, just at the end of the branches. Wrap the burlap around these stakes to erect a fabric windscreen, which will protect the tree from inclement weather.
Move any potted Japanese maples indoors to protect them from the cold. Keep them near a window so they can still receive adequate sunlight.
Water the roots of the tree thoroughly prior to the first frost. This helps prevent the tree from drying out since the outdoor maples should not be watered after the first frost occurs.
Cover the root system of any outdoor Japanese maples with several inches of mulch, which will act as insulation and help prevent the roots from freezing.
Cover the Japanese maple with a burlap tarp prior to any severe storms. The tarp will help protect against harsh winds and freezing moisture.
Dust the Japanese maple with a broom after snowfall to knock off any snow from it before it freezes. Ice can add so much weight to a tree that the branches or trunk could snap from the weight. Regular snow removal helps prevent this.