- How to Propagate Grape Vines
- How to Grow Azaleas From Cuttings
- How to Take Cuttings From a Hybrid Poplar
- How to Propagate Sedum Succulents
- How to Transplant Rose Bush Cuttings
- How to Plant Peppermint Cuttings
- How to Root Fruit Tree Cuttings
- How to Propagate Succulents From Cuttings
- How to Plant Willow Cuttings
- How to Propagate Semi-Woody Cuttings
Growing grapes is a great way to add a sweet and tasty addition to your garden. While there are several ways to propagate grape vines, one of the easiest is by rooting cuttings taken from a mature vine. For areas with adequate rainfall, you can start your cuttings in place in your garden or, in drier areas, try starting your cuttings indoors in pots and then transplanting them. Grapes can be started from dormant, new growth vines as they are just beginning to bud.
Azaleas add color each year for only a few weeks during the growing season. Add more color and variety to your landscape by propagating your current azaleas by rooting cuttings. Just a few clippings can create many more plants for next season.
Clip 6-inch cuttings from a healthy azalea bush. Cut close to a leaf node because the bottom node is where the new plant's roots will grow. Remove the bottom leaves from the cuttings and discard.
Pour two or three tablespoons of rooting compound into a separate dish. This keeps any diseases from spreading to the entire bottle of compound.
Fill the growing tray with the sterile medium and level out. Poke holes at even intervals in the medium for the cuttings to be planted.
Dip the cuttings into the rooting compound and stick into the holes in the tray. Gently tamp down the growing medium around the cuttings so no air is around the ends. Air contaminates the stem and causes it to rot instead of root.
Mist the cuttings with the spray bottle until the soil is damp but not drenched. Too much water will also cause the cuttings to rot.
Place the tray in a warm, sunny spot but not in direct sunlight. Direct light is too bright for the cuttings and will dry them out too quickly.
Monitor the cuttings for two or three weeks by spraying or misting with water each time the soil becomes dry. If the cuttings start to wilt, they are not getting enough water. When the cutting shows resistance when gently pulled, the roots have developed. The plants can then be transplanted into larger pots or planted directly into the garden.
Cut sections of the hybrid poplar from one-year-old wood, which will have had a chance to harden off, and is usually easily rooted. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle to the branch and remove about 12 inches. Typically this is done in early spring before the tree has started budding out.
Soak the cuttings in cold water for two or three days before planting. About one fourth of the branch should be in water to encourage the rooting process. This is especially important for cuttings taken late in the spring.
Prepare the planting spot by cultivating it and removing any rocks or debris. If you are planting several cuttings, they should be spaced about 4 feet apart. Work the soil down at least 12 inches and make sure it has plenty of organic material in it to hold moisture.
Push the damp cuttings into the soil straight up and down, leaving only an inch of the cutting sticking out of the top of the soil. Make sure the soil is damp, and firm it up around the cuttings to make sure there are no air pockets.
Water the cuttings as needed to keep the soil damp for the first three or four weeks. The cuttings should root quickly and show signs of growth. Keep weeds removed from the area around the base of the cuttings.
Fill the shallow, flat container with vermiculite.
Water until the vermiculite is thoroughly moistened but not soggy.
Take cuttings. Cut the tips of branches just below the third set of leaves. Remove the bottom set of leaves.
Dip the cut end of the cuttings into rooting hormone. Blow off the excess.
Insert the eraser end of a pencil into the vermiculite to make a hole in which to insert the cuttings.
Insert the sedum cuttings into the prepared holes in the vermiculite. Make sure the nodes from the removed leaves are below the surface of the vermiculite. Roots will grow from these nodes. Firm the medium around the stem so that the cuttings stand up by themselves. It’s okay to crowd them in the container because they will be transplanted after roots form.
Put the container of cuttings in the shade. Check daily and water as needed to keep the vermiculite moist.
Check to see if roots have formed after 3 to 4 weeks. Gently tug on the cuttings. If you feel a slight resistance when you pull on the cutting using gentle pressure, roots have begun to form. Let the roots continue to grow for another 2 to 3 weeks before planting into individual pots or into the garden.
Wait until your rose bush cuttings have been rooted and growing for at least 3 to 6 months before transplanting. Transplant in spring after all danger of frost has passed. In warmer southern climates, cuttings can be transplanted in the fall as long as there is no danger of frost.
Chose a location with plenty of sun and good drainage.
Dig a hole at least 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep and then fill in half the hole with a mixture of 50% garden soil and 50% organic fertilizer. This will provide a deep, nutrient-rich foundation for your new cuttings to grow on.
Carefully turn the pot with your rooted cutting up-side-down with your slightly-splayed fingers supporting the soil and roots of your cutting as you tap on the pot and your cutting and its soil slides out of the pot.
Place the cutting and soil into the hole you have prepared and fill in around it with a mixture of 50% garden soil and 50% organic fertilizer. Pack gently around the base of the new rose.
Water thoroughly. Keep the ground around your new rose bush watered for the next several days and your new bush should begin to thrive almost immediately.
Keep as much of the soil around the roots as possible as you are transplanting your cuttings in order to minimize any root damage.
Do not try to transplanting rose cuttings too soon. Allow your cuttings to develop for 3 to 6 months or until they have a good, healthy root system before attempting to transplant.
Fill the pot with a mixture of equal amounts of peat moss and perlite. Mix well to combine before adding to the pot.
Pinch off a stem from a healthy peppermint plant and remove the leaves from its bottom half.
Cover the cut end of the stem with rooting hormone.
Insert the cut end of the stem into the pot and soil mixture, leaving about 2/3 of the stem above the soil line. Tap the pot gently to set the soil.
Water the plant thoroughly so that the soil is well moistened but not muddy.
Place the bag over the pot to create a greenhouse and set in an area with filtered sun. Keep spoil moist but not muddy.
Remove the plastic bag when new leaf growth appears.
Transplant the plant to the garden after the roots are established.
Select fresh cuttings that are at least 1/8 inch in diameter and have some pliable wood present.
Store the cuttings in water until ready to use to ensure they do not dry out.
Using a sharp grafting knife, cut an angled tip onto one side of the cutting and dip the cutting into root hormone.
Plant the cutting angled tip side down into a pot and keep moist.
Once the roots have outgrown the pot, transplant to a desired location.
Take cuttings from tips of new growth branches with clean, diagonal cuts, and place them in a vase or other type container of water. Willows have a natural plant hormone (IBA), the same hormone that is synthesized in many rooting compounds, which makes willow cuttings very easy to root. In two to six weeks, cuttings will sprout visible roots.
Plant cuttings in pots filled with a well-draining growing medium immediately after roots appear, if taken in the fall. When taken closer to spring, plant cuttings with visible roots directly into soil as soon as the danger of frost has passed.
Grow willow cuttings wherever shade is desired. Willows will tolerate any soil, even soils with poor drainage. Willows are fast-growing trees. In addition to good choices for shade trees, they're also good for preventing soil erosion.
Cut a healthy branch from the plant. Horticulturists at North Carolina State University suggest that you choose a lateral branch, rather than a terminal branch. This would be a branch that is growing off the side of a main branch. If the cutting has leaves, remove all but two or three at the top.
Fill the planting pot with equal parts of coarse sand and peat moss. Moisten the soil until the water runs out of the bottom of the pot. Using your finger or a pencil, poke a hole for the cutting.
Dip the bottom one inch of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Tap the cutting on the side of the jar to remove any excess powder or liquid.
Insert the cutting into the planting hole and pack the soil around it. If there are nodes or buds on the cutting, bury at least two of them below the surface of the soil.
Place the cutting in the plastic bag and seal the top. Place it in an area that receives lots of light, but no direct sun. Check the planting medium periodically to make sure it remains moist.
Remove the potted cutting from the bag when new growth appears.