Blade Replacement Instructions for a Snapper Lawn Mower
The first Snapper power lawn mower was called the Snappin’ Turtle and was first manufactured in the early 1950s. As the number of suburban lawns started to climb in the 1950s and 1960s, so did Snapper mowers. A rear-engine riding mower called the Comet was introduced as a result. As of 2010, Snapper still manufactures gasoline engine powered walk-behind mowers and their rear-engine riding mower. Replacing the cutting blade may become necessary when it becomes worn or bent.
Park the mower on a flat, level surface. Remove the fuel tank if it is more than three quarters full by lifting it straight up and out of its mounting bracket. Hold the tank with one hand and remove the gasoline filler cap from the top of the tank with the other. Pour the fuel into a gasoline can. Replace the cap and push the fuel tank back into its mounting bracket until it is fully seated.
Lift the front of the mower up so that it is standing straight up and resting on its rear engine guard. Use a helper if necessary.
Locate the mower blade on the underside of the mower deck, which should be easily accessible with the mower standing on end. Put on a pair of heavy work gloves and hold the mower blade from turning while removing the retaining bolts. Turn the two blade retaining bolts in a counterclockwise direction with a wrench and place them aside.
Remove the blade from the spindle assembly. Place the hole in the center of a new or replacement blade over the center nut on the spindle. Line up the two mounting holes in the blade with the bolt holes in the spindle. Make sure the cutting surfaces are facing the forward edge of the blade if it was turning in a clockwise direction.
Replace the mower blade retaining bolts and tighten them to 30 to 40 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Carefully lower the front of the mower until the front wheels are on the ground. Use a helper if necessary. Remove the filler cap from the fuel tank and pour the gasoline back in. Replace the cap.
Dull blades can be sharpened if there is no other damage, such as cracks or bends. Hold the blade at a 22 to 28 degree angle against a stationary grinding wheel. Do not grind off material past the original cutting edge.
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- Dull blades can be sharpened if there is no other damage, such as cracks or bends. Hold the blade at a 22 to 28 degree angle against a stationary grinding wheel. Do not grind off material past the original cutting edge.
- Gasoline can (optional)
- Helper (optional)
- Heavy work gloves
- Wrench set
- Torque wrench