- How to Remove Rust From Hedge Clippers
- How to Prune Hedge Roses
- How to Prune Cotoneaster Shrubs
- How to Kill Wild Hedges
- How to Trim a Tall Hedge
- How to Trim Hedges in the Heat
- How to Sharpen Hedge Clippers
- How Do I Shorten Hedges?
- How to Remove Hedge Roots
- The Best Plant for Tall Hedges
- How to Grow Hedge Apples
- How to Build a Hedge Maze
- How to Plant Yew Hedges
- How to Prune Silverberry
Every time you remove rust from your hedge clippers, you are removing layers of metal. And each time this happens, your hedge clippers become less effective. The best way to care for your hedge clippers is to prevent them from developing rust in the first place. Clean your hedge clippers with soap and water after each use. Then coat them with a thin layer of motor oil before putting them away.
Remove light layers of rust by scrubbing the affected areas with steel wool.
Remove significant amounts of rust by soaking your hedge clippers in white vinegar for 10 minutes. Then scrub them with a stiff wire brush.
Remove significant amounts of rust--that have left the hedge clipper blades rough or pitted--by sanding them away with an electric drill with a wire-brush attachment. But keep in mind that while this will remove the rust, it will remove some of the hedge clippers' metal and likely reduce their effectiveness. The best option may be to replace heavily rusted hedge clippers.
Coat your hedge clipper's blades with a thin coat of motor oil after the rust is removed.
Prune the overall shape of the hedge roses using a sharp pair of hedge shears. Electric or gas hedge trimmers also work very well.
Cut the top of the hedge flat using the shears or trimmers.
Cut the sides flat, but make sure the top is a little narrower than the bottom to allow sun to reach the leaves lower on the hedge.
Use a pair of very sharp pruning shears to remove dead wood in the hedge. Removing dead wood will encourage the growth of new wood.
Selectively remove some of the larger, older wood to encourage new wood and the roses that grow on that new wood.
Plug in your electric hedge trimmer and use it to cut the new growth of the cotoneaster shrub back to the woody old growth. Electric hedge trimmers should be with a controlled sweeping mooting that travels parallel to the surface of the hedge so that it mainly clips off the ends of new growth rather than cutting into the hedge. If you want to allow the shrub to get larger in some areas, do not cut the new growth all the way back to the woody parts of the hedge in those spots.
Use a ladder to reach the new growth on the top of the hedge if necessary.
Remove any dead branches or branches affected with Fireblight by cutting them off as close to the ground or as close to healthy growth as possible using a wood saw. Old dead branches will not have any leaves while branches that are dying or affected with Fireblight will have brownish or yellowish leaves that may be shriveled, which should stick out against all the healthy green leaves.
Use a manual hedge trimmer to clean up the trim job you did with the electric trimmer.
Rake the trimmings into a pile and place them in a leaf bag. If you had to remove dead branches, cut the dead parts into sections so that you can fit them into the leaf bag.
Dilute the herbicide with water according to the product directions.
Pour the diluted herbicide into a hand-held sprayer.
Spray the foliage of the hedges with the herbicide. Ensure the herbicide is applied to the inner and outer foliage.
Wait two to six weeks for the herbicide to completely kill the hedges' foliage.
Cut away the dead hedges with pruning shears or a chain saw. Leave 3 to 4 inches of stems protruding from the ground.
Remove the roots from the ground. Pull small hedge roots out by hand. For large hedge roots, wrap a chain around the stems and attach the chain to a winch or vehicle. Pull the roots, slowly, out of the ground.
Set up the platform ladder close to the bushes, if needed, to trim tall hedges. This will allow you to move alongside of the hedges.
Measure the desired height. While your partner holds the ladder, use the tape measure to determine the height you want your bushes. Use the spray paint to make a hash mark 1/4 inch above the desired height.
Repeat every 2 feet. Move down about 2 feet and measure the hedges again. Make another hedge mark at the correct height. Continue this until you have marked the entire row of hedges. Depending upon the length of your hedges, move the ladder as needed.
Connect the hashes. Use the spray paint to paint a line going the entire length of the hedges.
Trim the top. While standing on the platform ladder use the hedge shears to trim at the bottom of the line. Do this across the entire length of the hedges. Cut out all of the spray paint from the hedges.
Trim the sides. Use the shears to trim the sides of the hedges. Start at the bottom of the hedges and cut up toward the top. Always cut at an angle. The lower branches should be wider than the top branches. This allows for the lower branches to receive sunlight.
Water the hedges well about two to three days before trimming to get them well-hydrated before they become stressed from pruning.
Prune in the evening so the hedge will not be immediately exposed to the hottest part of the day.
Limit the trimming in mid- to late-summer.
Trim diseased, broken and weak branches anytime of the year, including during hot weather. Adhere to the first two steps to help the hedge handle the stress of pruning.
Sketch the position of the hinge bolt, spring and washers to help you remember the correct way to replace them. Remove the hinge bolt, spring and washers from the clippers using the correct size box wrench or ratchet. There is just enough difference between metric and standard wrench sizes that the bolt can slip if you choose the wrong one.
Clean the blades with a scouring pad and mineral spirits before sharpening, according to the advice of Australian gardening expert Don Burke of the Burke's Backyard television program and magazine.
Sharpen the edge bevel of both blades to the original angle, using a fine mill bastard file. When finished, you should feel a sharp burr on the contact side of the clipper blade, which is where the two blades meet when they are assembled.
Lay the file flat on the contact side of the blade. Scuff toward the edge until the burr is gone. The entire length of the blade should feel sharp.
Replace the spring, washers, bolt and nut in their original positions, using your sketch as a reference point.
Tighten the nut until the blades make a clean shearing sound while cutting a piece of notebook paper. The blades should return to the open position as soon as you release pressure on the handles.
Determine the desired height. If the reduction in height equals less than a third of the bulk of the plant material, you can safely make the reduction in a single pruning session. If reducing the height by more than a third of the volume, plan two or more pruning sessions with a recovery interval of several weeks in between.
Rough cut the top of the hedging plants to within a few inches above the final desired height using your scissor shears or hedge trimmers. Remove the cut plant material from the area.
Give a finished top shape to the shrub by making flat or rounded edged cuts with your shears. Hold the cutting blade parallel with the top hedge surface for a flat cut or at an angle for a curved or rounded shape. Repeat shape pruning as necessary to maintain the desired shape and height.
Cut the hedges at the base of the trunk with loppers. If the base is too large to be cut with loppers, use a saw or hatchet.
Remove the hedge and begin to dig out away from the trunk by 2 to 3 feet with a shovel. Dig into the ground about 2 to 3 feet in a circle around the trunk to expose the root ball. If you encounter a thick entanglement of roots, you are digging too close to the hedge's trunk. Widen the circle as necessary.
Dig under the root ball to expose its underside, then pull the root ball out by the trunk. If it's too heavy or bulky, get help.
Backfill the hole and lay sod over the soil, if desired. Water and fertilize the sod according to the planting instructions to grow grass.
The best plant for tall hedges is the dense evergreen boxwood plant, which is a member of the arborvitae family. If you prefer a flowering hedge you can use the purpleleaf sandcherry or lilac bushes.
Plant the hedge apple tree in full sun. They can tolerate a lot of soil conditions from clay, sand, and loam to either acidic or alkaline.
Dig a hole for the hedge apple tree, about as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Place the tree in the hole and cover it with soil.
Water the hedge apple tree sparingly, only once every month if there is no natural rainfall. Once established, they are very drought tolerant.
Prune hedge apple trees every fall or spring. Cut back any overreaching, dead or damaged branches. Trim the hedge apple into the desired shape.
Harvest the hedge apples in the fall as they become ripe or let them drop to the ground.
Map the design of the hedge maze using the graph paper and pencil. Make the map to scale, with each block of the graph paper equal to a foot square or two feet square. Add any additional features that you wish to add, such as benches or fountains to add interest to the nooks and crannies of the maze where visitors might find themselves lost.
Outline the boundaries of the hedge maze using string and stakes according to the map. Drive the stakes into the ground at the corners where the hedge will be trimmed after it has grown. In this way, the maze should be fully outlined.
Till the soil where the hedge plants are to be placed using a rototiller. Use a small tiller to make it easier to work within the confines of the string boundaries.
Install the hedge plants into the tilled ground, and then remove the string and stakes. Use the planting guide included with the hedge plants to ensure that they grow together into what will appear to be one single, large expanse of hedge, rather than just a conglomeration of plants.
Stake down the weed mat over the path between the hedges if you wish to use a gravel path rather than grass. After the weed mat is in place, pour pea gravel over the top to create a simple path similar to what one often sees in traditional English hedge mazes.
Clear a planting location in full sunlight or shade. The yew requires well-draining soil conditions. Plant the yew hedge in the spring months.
Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the shrub's root system. Plant the yew at the same depth it was planted in its nursery container.
Mix aged manure or compost into the soil so it feels crumbly to the touch. Place the yew into the hole.
Tamp the soil down around the yews root system to remove all air pockets. Space the yew shrubs at least 2 to 4 feet apart when planting a hedge that will be maintained at a height size of 6 to 8 feet. Space the shrubs 4 to 6 feet apart if the hedge will be maintained at a height of 8 to 12 feet.
Apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base of the yew shrub to help keep the soil moist and reduce any weed growth. Water the newly planted yew shrubs. Keep them moist, but not overly damp.
Wear gardening gloves and use a partner as a spotter if you are going up on a ladder. Silverberry has large thorns that will cause injury, so wear a long-sleeved shirt while pruning and keep gardening gloves on at all times.
Prune silverberry in early spring to remove dead and crisscrossed branches. Clip off branches 1 inch above the base of the branch to allow new growth to develop.
Prune silverberry anytime before red fruits begin to grow in late spring. Pruning branches with silverberry fruit will prevent new fruit from growing.
Trim your silverberry shrub weekly during early and mid-spring in order to maintain a neat appearance, especially if you are using your silverberry shrub as a hedge. For straight-edged trimming, use hedge clippers instead of pruning shears.
Remove any branch clippings from the base of the shrub immediately after pruning to promote new growth and better absorption from the soil.