- How to Use a Floating Pool Chlorinator
- What Is a Safe Chlorine Level for a Swimming Pool?
- How to Store Pool Chlorine at Home
- How to Neutralize Chlorine in Swimming Pools
- How to Use Baquacil
- How to Test High Pool Chlorine Levels Using Dilution
- How to Cure Chlorine Demand in Swimming Pools
- How to Test Pool Chlorine
- How to Remove Chlorine From a Pool
- How to Use Calcium Hypochlorite in a Swimming Pool
- How to Check Pool Chemicals
- How to Add Javex to Pool Water
- What Is the Normal Range for the Chlorine Level in My Pool?
- How to Hook Up a Chlorinator
- Will Chlorine in Garden Water Hurt Plants & Trees?
Floating pool chlorinators offer a simple way to add chlorine to your swimming pool. They also can add a bit of whimsy: Manufacturers produce the floating chlorinators in a number of designs ranging from yellow ducks to alligator heads. Despite what the chlorinator looks like, they all serve the same purpose as a housing for the chlorine tablets while they dissolve into the water. Using them is simple and within the capabilities of most pool owners.
Open the floating pool chlorinator, and place into the housing one chlorine tablet for every 10,000 gallons of pool size. Close the container, and place the floating pool chlorinator back into the pool. Follow all manufacturer's instructions concerning the handling of the chlorine tablets and the number of tablets to use for the size of your pool.
Monitor the chlorine level of the pool after one week and every week thereafter. Use a chlorine test kit, and follow manufacturer's instructions. The goal is between 2 and 4 parts per million of free chlorine. Add or reduce the number of chlorine tablets in the floating pool chlorinator to increase or reduce the amount of chlorine in the pool.
Monitor the levels of alkalinity every week as well. The same test kits measure the alkalinity, with the desired range for the pH at about 7.5 and the total alkalinity at between 80 and 130 parts per million. Adjust the number of chlorine tablets in the floating pool chlorinator to change the alkalinity.
Chlorine in your pool water is either free chlorine, meaning hypochlorous acid that has not yet reacted with organic compounds and is thus available to kill microorganisms, and combined chlorine, which has already reacted with organic compounds and is no longer available. Free chlorine is the important parameter and the one you want to measure.
In general, a free chlorine level that is too low poses greater health risks than a free chlorine level that is too high, but either condition is undesirable. The El Dorado County Environmental Management Department recommends that you maintain free chlorine levels between 1 and 5 parts per million unless you are using cyanuric acid to chlorinate your pool, in which case levels of free chlorine should be between 1.5 and 5 parts per million.
If swimmers complain of eye irritation and burning or stinging eyes, the problem might not actually be too much chlorine, but too little. Once free chlorine reacts with certain organic compounds to form combined chlorine, the chloramine compounds produced by the reaction are strong eye irritants, and can make your pool an inhospitable place for swimmers. Raising free chlorine levels will drive this reaction to completion, and eliminate most of the chloramine compounds--thereby reducing the potential for eye irritation. It's important to note, however, that you should always test chlorine levels before and after adding more chlorine to make sure your free chlorine stays within the safe range.
Store your chlorine on a shelf in your pool house, next to your pump. This is the best spot, and what the pool house is designed for. The pump is usually not far from your filter. Easier access to the chemicals is always good when cleaning your pool.
Keep your chlorine in an out building, near your pool. A high shelf in a garage is ideal, and the second best place if you have no pool house.
Store it in a cool, dry area. Avoid leaving chlorine out in direct sunlight, which weakens its effectiveness.
Stored chlorine should be used within six months for maximum results.
Store any pool chemical in a locked cabinet if it is low enough for children or pets to reach.
Obtain a water sample from a foot below the water's surface in the deep end of the pool. Collect the water in a clean glass jar with a lid.
Test the water sample's chlorine level with a test kit, available at any pool supply store. The optimal range of chlorine is 1.0 to 3.0 parts per million (ppm).
Determine the amount of chlorine neutralizing product to add to the pool, based on the current chlorine level and the number of gallons of water in your pool. Choose from a variety of chlorine neutralizing products at a pool supply store. Each product has instructions for determining proper amounts to use.
Purchase chlorine neutralizer based on the calculated amount required.
Pour the neutralizer into the pool around the perimeter. Begin by using only half of the product you purchased.
Turn on the pool's filter and allow it to run for four hours.
Test the pool water again to ensure the chlorine levels are dropping.
Continue neutralizing the pool until chlorine levels fall in the proper range.
Get a water sample from the swimming pool and take it to an authorized Baquacil dealer for testing.
Add Baquacil Metal Control if the pool water contains metals. For every 2 ppm of metals in 10,000 gallons of water, add 1 bottle and let the water circulate for 8 to 12 hours.
Add Baquacil Sanitizer and Algistat to the pool water to bring the level to 50 ppm.
Add 1 gallon of Baquacil Oxidizer for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Add 2 pints of Baquacil CDX for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Dip a Baquacil Test Strip in the water for one second, hold the strip up for 15 seconds and check the color against the guide on the Baquacil Test Strip bottle to check if you have the correct levels of products. Add more of the products if necessary.
Use the Baquacil Test Strip to check the levels of products in the pool water every week.
Add Baquacil Sanitizer and Algistat if the level falls below 40 ppm to get it to reach 50 ppm.
Add 1 quart of Baquacil Oxidizer to the pool for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Add 1 pint of Baquacil CDX to the pool skimmer for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Fill the test vile from the kit half full of pool water. Take the water from 18 inches below the surface of the water to ensure a good sample.
Add distilled water to fill the test vile the rest of the way.
Shake the vile to mix the liquids thoroughly.
Squeeze the reagents into the vile according to the instructions on the test kit you are using. Shake the vile to mix the reagents.
Read the number on the vile that corresponds to the color of the liquid. Multiply the number by 2; this is the true level of chlorine in the water. For example, if the liquid tests at 6 ppm, the true level is 12 ppm.
Use chlorine test strips to determine the FAC and total chlorine levels. Dip the strip in the pool water, and compare its color to the test kit chart.
Subtract the total chlorine value from the FAC value to determine the chloramine level. Shock the pool with chlorine shock to reduce the chloramine level and test the water again. If the FAC value remains low and the chloramines high, suspect a chlorine demand problem.
Take a sealed sample of your water to a professional pool chemicals dealer or water testing service. They have the lab equipment needed to differentiate between water that has a chlorine demand problem and water that needs a different adjustment.
Follow the lab's recommendations on treating the water. Chlorine demand problems usually require the addition of 10 to 20 times the normal dosage of chlorine or mono-pursulfate shock chemicals.
Shock the pool weekly with chlorine after the FAC level has stabilized.
Purchase a chlorine test strip kit. Chlorine test strip kits include water testing strips and a color chart.
Wait until late afternoon or early evening to test the chlorine level in the pool. Direct sunlight will affect the testing procedure.
Find an area by the deep end of the pool that is farthest away from the pool filter. Submerge a clean cup about 1 foot under the water, and fill the cup with water.
Bring the cup out of the water, and set the cup aside. Wipe off your hands with a towel, to prevent altering the test.
Remove a test strip from the kit. Dip the test strip into the cup of pool water, and then remove the strip immediately.
Hold the test strip level for about 15 seconds. Once color appears on the test strip, match the color of the test strip to the color chart included in the kit. The colors on the chart will show you the chlorine level of the pool water.
Stop adding chlorine to the pool immediately. The sun naturally breaks down the chemical. If your pool is in the sun, the longer you leave it there, the less chlorine you will have in the water. It should dissipate completely within 10 days.
Add a dechlorination chemical to the water if you want to hasten the process or if your pool is in the shade. You will need to know how many gallons of water your pool holds in order to know how much of the product you need to buy. Test the pool to find out how much chlorine is in there and decide how much you want to remove. Follow the directions on the package, applying the recommended dose to reduce or get rid of the chlorine.
Refill the pool with fresh water and test it again to make sure your pool is balanced. Without the proper balance of chemicals, it is not safe for people to swim.
Pull a water sample from your pool. Have this tested by your local pool supply retailer or purchase a test kit to do it yourself. The retailer can provide a detailed computer analysis with a breakdown of chemicals that must be added.
Liquid chlorine must be added by pouring around the perimeter of the pool or directly in front of the return jets. Granular chlorine is scattered evenly around the pool. Chlorine degrades rapidly under direct sunlight. Add in the late afternoon or evening for best results.
Shock treat your pool on a weekly basis to force the chlorine level past the break point. The amount of calcium hypochlorite needed depends on the level of organic material and free chlorine in the pool. Expect a minimum dose of 1 lb. per 10,000 gallons.
Check your water weekly for all chemical levels to maintain optimum cleanliness and clarity. Maintain a floater with chlorine tablets at all times. Add liquid chlorine as indicated by testing.
Test the pH level of the pool water first before testing and adjusting the chlorine levels. The sanitizing effect of chlorine is best at proper pH levels. Collect a sample of water and insert a reagent test strip, a substance that causes a chemical reaction, into it.
Compare the result to the color chart that accompanies the test strips to determine the pH level. The proper pH levels of pool water should fall between 7.2 and 7.6. Alkali products such as sodium bicarbonate raise pH levels and acidic products such as sodium bisulfate lower pH levels.
Take a sample of the water from a few feet below the surface and at the edge of the pool. Use a reagent test strip as in step 1 to determine the residual chlorine in the water. The chlorine added to the water in a pool is first absorbed by the contaminants such as bacteria and algae to eliminate them. The remaining chlorine is referred to as the residual chlorine and it is this that needs to be tested and monitored.
Compare the reaction to the charge to find out the residual chlorine level of the pool water. Proper residual chlorine levels fall between 1.0 and 1.5 parts per million.
Go to the Utah Office of Epidemiology (see Resources) and input the size of your pool in gallons. Put “0” as the current FAC reading and a number between 1 and 3 as the desired free chlorine level. Check the "Liquid chlorine box" and click "Calculate." This will tell you how much Javex to add to your pool.
Put on the goggles, rubber gloves and face mask. Open the diaphragm pump or peristaltic pump to your pool. Pour the required amount of liquid chlorine into the pump.
Turn on the pump to add the Javex to your pool. This will also raise the level of chlorine for a brief period, notes Dan Hardy in his book "The Complete Pool Manual for Homeowners and Professionals."
When you're measuring chlorine, there are several different numbers you'll want to track. Free chlorine is chlorine that hasn't yet been used, so it's still available to kill microorganisms. Combined chlorine has already reacted with organic compounds and is no longer useful as a disinfectant. Combined chlorine is the total of the two different measurements.
According for the Centers for Disease Control, pool chlorine should usually range between 1 and 3 parts per million; this is the normal range. The maximum for pool chlorine is 10 ppm. Sometimes it may be necessary to superchlorinate your pool to prevent the buildup of combined chlorine. During superchlorination, you'll add another 10 ppm of chlorine to the water. Make sure that no one swims in the pool during superchlorination, and test the levels to make sure they're back down into the normal range before anyone swims in the water.
According to the North Carolina Division of Environmental Health, .2 ppm is the maximum for combined chlorine. It's also crucial to monitor the pH as well; if the pH strays too far outside the 7.2 to 7.8 range, the disinfection power of the pool chlorine will decrease rapidly.
Turn off the pool pump and filter. Cut a section of the pool's plumbing after the filter. Set the chlorinator between the two sections of plumbing. Ensure the arrow located on the base of the chlorinator's plumbing faces the direction that the water will flow through the chlorinator.
Coat the plumbing ends with glue and primer. Slide the plumbing ends into the chlorinator's open plumbing until they fit snugly. Wait until the plumbing dries before moving on.
Unscrew the lid of the chlorinator slightly. Ensure the chlorinator's flow check valve (located on the base of the chlorinator's plumbing) points to a setting above zero. The higher the setting of the check valve, the more water flows through the chlorinator and is treated.
Turn on the pool pump and filter. Wait until water trickles out from the chlorinator lid, then finish screwing the lid on. This keeps air from gathering at the top of the chlorinator and vapor-locking the plumbing.
Plants and trees need trace amounts of chlorine for growth, but chlorine is toxic in large amounts. If a plant gets too much chlorine, the leaves may develop spots or drop off. Heating water or letting it stand overnight can eliminate chlorine from tap water.