- How to Remove Seeds From Strawberries
- Parts of a Strawberry Plant
- How to Cut Down Strawberry Plants
- How to Care for a Fragoo Strawberry
- How to Care for Everbearing Strawberry Plants
- How to Winterize Potted Strawberry Plants
- How to Prune Strawberry Plants
- How to Kill Wild Strawberry Weeds
- How to Protect Strawberry Plants
- When Do You Plant Strawberries in Washington?
- When to Plant Strawberries in Kentucky
- How to Plant Strawberries in Missouri
- When to Plant Strawberries in Zone 5
- How to Save Strawberry Seeds
- How Far Apart to Plant Strawberry Plants?
- How to Start a Strawberry Farm
- The Best Time to Plant Strawberries
- Wintering Over a Strawberry Pot
- The Best Strawberry Plants to Use in Ohio
- The Average Height of a Strawberry Plant
- How to Plant Ozark Strawberries
- When Should You Plant Strawberries in Oklahoma?
- How to Destroy Strawberry Plants
- How to Store Strawberry Plants
Strawberries are sweet, bright red fruits that are full of nutrients and low in calories. This fruit is easily recognized by its unique shape and seeds that grow on the outside. Strawberry seeds can be taken from the fruit and planted to grow new strawberry plants, but it can be difficult to remove the seeds without destroying the strawberry. However, if you spend a little time on it, you can harvest the seeds and still enjoy the fruit.
Cut the green stems and leaves off the top of the strawberries with a sharp knife.
Slice the outer layer of the strawberries off with the knife. Cut just deep enough so no seeds remain on the strawberry.
Place the seeds in a blender and add enough water to cover them.
Blend the strawberry seeds for three to five seconds on medium speed. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the blender while the bad seeds and strawberry pulp will float to the top.
Pour the contents of the blender out slowly. Pull the seeds out from the bottom of the blender with your hands.
This is the central "trunk" of the strawberry plant from which all other parts grow. It's perennial, reviving each spring and sending out new growth. Take care when planting that the crown remains right at ground level. If it is buried, it could rot.
Strawberry roots grow shallowly, remaining mainly in the top three to six inches of soil, depending on the variety. They must compete for water with other plants unless you weed them scrupulously. Each spring, new roots grow from higher and higher up the crown, eventually climbing up above the soil. Cover them with more soil each season.
Leaves develop from points on the crown called "nodes" or "auxiliary buds." Three jagged-edged, oval leaves bud from the end of each bud stalk.
Flowers, from which fruit develops, appear on thin, leafless stalks that grow from the crown. Different strawberry varieties will flower and fruit at different frequencies. Some will do so only once a season, some have several fruiting times and some will produce strawberries throughout the season.
After fruiting time, auxiliary buds start producing runners: long stems whose ends form crowns, take root and become new "daughter plants." Depending on the variety, you may see many runners or only a few. Prune these off to keep your strawberries contained, or let them shoot out to create thick ground cover.
Set your mower to its highest level (about 4 inches) and mow the top of your strawberry patch to get rid of the old leaves. Rake up the cut foliage when done.
Cut out any weeds, such as dandelions, that you find in the patch. These other plants compete for the essential nutrients that your berries need to continue thriving.
Use a hoe, cultivator or rototiller to trim the patch row back to 12 to 18 inches wide. This is the ideal measurement for strawberry patches.
Locate the youngest and healthiest strawberry plants and cut down any other growth so that the most vigorous plants have 6 inches of space in every direction. This cushion gives your best plants the growing room they need so that they continue producing well.
Plant Fragoo strawberries in a mixture of natural soil and organic compost in outdoor plantings, or organic compost and quick-draining potting soil in pots and containers. These plants need good drainage and nutrition in their soil.
Keep Fragoo strawberries in areas with full sun exposure and good air circulation. They grow in partial sun, but may not bear full harvests. These strawberries will not grow in puddles or areas with poor circulation.
Water Fragoo strawberries with 2 inches of water every week after planting. Put 2 inches of organic mulch over the soil to keep it warm and moist, and to eliminate weed growth. Pull weeds if they grow, as strawberries suffer from competition.
Prune flowers off the Fragoo strawberry plants until mid-summer to encourage vegetative growth. Allow flower growth starting in mid-summer for blooming and fruit production.
Feed strawberries in mid-summer when blooming starts. Use balanced 12-12-12 fertilizer at a rate of 1 lb. per 50 feet of row, or per manufacturer directions. Mix the fertilizer into the soil 2 inches from the row of strawberries, then water. Don't let the fertilizer touch strawberry stems or foliage, as it will burn them.
Water the everbearing strawberry plants after planting. Continue to supply at least 1 inch of water per week during growing season when rainfall is less.
Supply each strawberry plant with 1 to 2 cups of a starter fertilizer seven days after planting. Make this using 1 or 2 tbsp. water-soluble all-purpose garden fertilizer and 1 gallon of water.
Weed the area around the everbearing strawberry plants using a hoe or hand pull any weeds emerging. Do not cultivate the soil too deep around the plants to avoid damaging the root system.
Remove any runners coming from the strawberry plants. Getting rid of these aids in the growth and creates larger, healthier single plants.
Check the strawberry plants often for blossoms. Pinch or cut all flowers on everbearing plants until July. This helps establish the plants.
Harvest the strawberries when fully developed. Fruits easily come off of plants when ready. One plant can supply from 1 to 1 1/2 quarts of strawberries.
Water the potted strawberry plants in late autumn before preparing them for the winter. Remove straggling leaves and cut back any dead foliage.
Cover the strawberry pot with bubble wrap and put the pot in a sheltered spot near the wall of your house, or in a garage or shed. Water the soil occasionally so it doesn't dry out completely.
Bring the strawberry pot out and remove the mulch and bubble wrap when the temperature reaches about 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Water the strawberries and feed them a dose of fertilizer formulated for tomato plants.
Replace the strawberry plants with new plants every 2 to 3 years. Wash the pot and start with fresh potting soil.
Pinch off new blossoms during the first year of strawberry plant growth. The plants won't provide fruit during the first year, but pinching off the blossoms with your fingers will help encourage new growth the following season.
Trim back "runners" with pruning scissors. Runners are small trails and shoots from the main plant and are usually rapid abundant growth spurts. Trim these back to the mother plant, so they don't drain essential nutrients.
Cut back strawberry plants at the end of the production season, which is usually towards the end of fall. Cut them about one inch above the soil. This keeps them productive for the next year.
Place a garden sprayer on the ground or on a sturdy work surface. Remove the lid by turning counter clockwise and set to the side. Put on safety glasses and gloves before mixing.
Determine the total amount of liquid herbicide to be mixed. Consider factors including tank size and the amount of wild strawberry to be treated.
Mix 1 oz. of herbicide that contains 2, 4-D, mecoprop and dicamba per 1 gallon of water.
Pour the herbicide mixture into the sprayer one-quarter of the way full. Place the cap on the sprayer and shake or swirl the herbicide and water to thoroughly mix. Remove the cap and slowly fill the sprayer to the desired level to prevent excessive foaming. Place the cap securely on the tank.
Hold the tip of the spray wand 6 to 8 inches from the wild strawberry and coat the leaves and runners thoroughly. Allow the herbicide mix to completely dry before allowing children and pets into the area. Monitor the die back of the plants for five to seven days. Reapply the herbicide as needed for control and eradication.
Mulch over your strawberry plants in the early winter with straw or pine needles to protect from winter cold, prevent heaving of the soil and displacement of plants. Move the mulch to between the plants in the spring after the last frost has passed to hold moisture in the soil, prevent soil splashing on the berries and keep competitive weeds down.
Keep birds from eating your strawberries by erecting low mesh and wood frames over the plants. Plastic or wire mesh frames will allow full sunlight and moisture to the plants and soil, as well as allow excess heat and moisture buildup to escape. Use a mesh gauge of 1/4-inch or so to prevent small birds from making it through or getting stuck or trapped.
Weed regularly between the strawberry plants to remove competitive weeds that will rob nutrients from your strawberry plants and invade the growing space. Invasive weeds will choke the strawberries out over time.
Single Crop or Everbearing
Strawberries are considered fruiting perennials. June-bearing plants are called single crop, while plants that have a second small crop in summer are called everbearing. Both can be planted at the same time.
Day neutral strawberries produce flower buds and fruit regardless of the day length. To get a good crop the first year, commercial growers at Raintree Nursery in Morton, Washington, recommend planting day neutral strawberries by April 15.
Bare root strawberries arrive in nurseries and garden centers from mid-January through March while still dormant. Flats of potted strawberries show up as the weather warms (April through early May).
Dormant bare root strawberries (called crowns) should be planted in late March through April. Temperatures at night should be above 25 degrees, according to Danny L. Barney, extension horticulture specialist at the University of Idaho.
Potted strawberry stock can be planted spring through early fall. May is often the time when containerized strawberries arrive in garden centers and is a preferred planting time, according to experts at the Washington State University Extension.
Plant strawberries in Kentucky in early spring. The plants are ready for the garden as soon as you can work the ground in March or April.
The strawberry harvest begins in May and lasts for two to three weeks. Collect all berries during this time; freeze unused strawberries to store them for future use.
Strawberries grow best in Kentucky soil that is deep and sandy. Clay soil can also be acceptable if it provides good drainage. Plant strawberries on higher ground to help them avoid frosts.
Plant the strawberries in full sun and well-draining soil.
Fertilize the planting site with 10 lbs. of fertilizer for every 1,000 feet of garden space. Work the fertilizer into the top 3 or 4 inches of soil.
Dig a small hole with a shovel or trowel that is large enough to accommodate the strawberry plant's root system.
Place a strawberry plant gently in the hole. Allow the roots to spread out, being careful not to damage the roots when placing them in the hole.
Pack the dirt down around the plant, tamping it firmly to remove air bubbles from the soil.
Water the plants after planting so they can begin to establish their roots. Strawberries need at least 1 inch of water per week. Keep the roots moist during the planting process and water them immediately after planting.
Strawberry plants will tolerate mild subfreezing temperatures and frosts. In USDA zone 5, the ideal time to plant strawberries to create a new bed is in early spring -- late March through April. Wait until the frost leaves the ground and the soil is no longer mucky.
Plant all strawberry types and varieties in spring for best establishment. June-bearing strawberries spread by running stems to create a thicket. Everbearing and day-neutral strawberries are maintained as tidy clumps.
After planting, pluck off all flowers on everbearing and day-neutral strawberry varieties until the plants have been in the ground for six weeks. Remove the flowers from June-bearing strawberries the entire first year to prevent berry production. Removing flowers focuses plant energy to create strong root systems and healthy foliage.
Plant the crown of the strawberry, the transitional area where stems united to then become roots, even with the soil. Planting too deeply encourages plant rot while planting too shallowly leads to dehydration.
Wait for the strawberries to get soft and mushy. This can happen in as little as a week after the strawberries are picked.
Cut the stems off the strawberries. The stems can be discarded.
Put the strawberries in a sieve. Press down on the strawberries with your hand to push the fruit through, but not so hard that you crush the seeds. The smashed strawberry fruit can be discarded.
Hold the sieve under cool running water to wash away any residual fruit.
Pour the seeds on a paper plate and put them in a sunny window for three days or until dry. You can tell they are dry when they feel especially light and no longer stick to one another.
Store the seeds in an airtight jar for up to a year. Keep the jar in a cool, dry and dark place.
Spacing for strawberry plants depends on the plant variety. June-bearing strawberries should be spaced 1 to 2 feet apart, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture program recommendations. Leave 36 to 40 inches between rows. The second major type of strawberries, day-neutral plants, should be planted 8 to 12 inches apart, with 30 to 36 inches between rows.
Set your strawberry plants in the ground in early spring, as soon as the soil warms enough to be turned. Be sure the threat of frost has passed for your area before planting, however.
Trim damaged or dead roots from the plants. Set them in the ground with the midpoint of the plant's crown at the top of the soil. Tamp down firmly on the soil around the plants to remove any air and then water the plants thoroughly.
Acquire desired amount of land for a strawberry farm. An acre of land can yield 10,000 pounds of strawberries.
Assign an area of land to be used as a parking area and an area for a concession stand. Thirty cars per 1,000 square feet is a rough estimate for parking.
Plant the strawberries 12 to 18 inches apart in rows. Rows must be at least 3 feet apart. Plants must be placed roots straight down and root ball half buried with the remaining root ball exposed. Plant desired amount of strawberry plants on assigned parcel of land. Strawberries require a well drained, slightly less than neutral pH soil in full sun.
Harvest strawberries when ripe or allow consumers to pick.
Strawberries are summer-bearing fruit and should be planted outdoors as soon as the ground is soft enough to work with a shovel. In most climates, this is in the early spring (March or April).
Cut back the dying stems and foliage of the strawberry plants in the autumn when the growing season ends. Trim away all spent growth with pruning shears.
Wrap the strawberry pot with a thick layer of bubble wrap. Cover the bubble wrap with the heavy blanket to insulate the plant's roots.
Move the strawberry plants to a garage or a shed with temperatures that range 30 to 40 degrees F.
Keep the soil in the strawberry pot slightly moist over the winter months. Check the strawberry plants once each week, and provide a light watering just to keep the soil from drying out. Do not over-water; keep the soil just slightly moist.
Remove the insulating layers. Begin watering the strawberry plants more in the spring when the weather begins to warm. Move the strawberry pots back outside when the temperature reaches at least 50 degrees F.
Seneca produces large, firm berries that are bright red. Its irregularly shaped fruits have a mild strawberry flavor. Produces few runners on only moderately vigorous plants. It has little resistance to common strawberry diseases. Seneca is grown primarily for the size and color of its berries.
This variety is one of the most popular in commercial cultivation, due in part to its large fruit with good flavor. Jewel blooms in mid to late June and is a heavy cropper. Does best on sites with rich soil.
Idea is a late season, very vigorous plant. It produces large light colored berries with a sweet, mild flavor. This variety is highly productive and shows excellent disease resistance. Often used as a parent when developing new varieties because of its disease resistance.
Strawberry plants are short, with an average height of 8 inches, depending on the chosen variety. Each plant forms a crown of leaves, with a 9- to 10-inch spread, and a shallow root system. Strawberries, which grow best in full sunlight and well-draining soil, should be spaced 12 to 15 inches apart.
Find an area with full sun and loam or sandy loam. As long as the soil is well-drained, Ozark strawberries should grow fine.
Work 2 pounds of 6-24-24 fertilizer per 100 square feet into the top 6 inches of soil. Do this as soon as you can work the soil in spring. The high levels of potassium and phosphorus will help with fruit production.
Set Ozark strawberry plants 15 to 24 inches apart in rows 36 to 48 inches apart. Place the plants so that the crown--the fleshy area where the leaves originate--is even with soil level.
Tamp the soil down firmly but gently around the roots. Water deeply to help settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
Strawberries grow anywhere in Oklahoma and are the most popular home garden crop in that state, according to the Oklahoma State University Cooperative Extension. They also are grown as one of the most successful cash crops in the area.
The best time to set spring strawberries out in Oklahoma is February through mid-March. This ensures they get into the ground after the last frost and have the full summer growing season.
In the southeast corner of Oklahoma, where temperatures are warmer, strawberries can be planted in the fall and spring. Strawberries put out in October to mid-November have the entire winter to take root and achieve better blooming and fruit harvests in the summer.
Test your soil’s pH. Strawberries grow best in acidic, sandy soil. If your soil is acidic and sandy it is no wonder the strawberry plants are invading it.
Pull the strawberry plants up by the roots or mow over them with a lawn mower. This will not completely destroy them, but they will be out of your hair for a moment.
Apply lime to your soil. Add 30 lbs. of lime per 100 square feet of soil.
Mix the lime into your soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Add more lime to decrease the acidity further. Once the soil is no longer acidic the strawberry plants should die out.
Water the plants well into September prior to storing the pots for winter.
Apply a 6- to 8-inch mulch layer around strawberries growing in a pyramid container after the ground is frozen in fall.
Move strawberries growing in barrels to an unheated garage or other structure for winter after the ground freezes. Cover large barrels securely with burlap if they are too large to move. Apply a thick covering of straw around strawberry plants before covering with burlap in areas where the winters are extremely harsh.
Move strawberry pots to an unheated garage or structure once the ground has frozen. Make sure the temperature stays at 32 degrees F or just slightly lower so the plants don’t go through a cycle of thawing and freezing.
Begin introducing the strawberry plants to spring weather during the day. Protect the plants at night if there is still a risk of frost.
Apply small amounts of water to the soil once the soil begins to warm in outdoor conditions. Do not saturate with water. Do not let the roots dry out once the soil begins to thaw.