- White Mold on a Hibiscus Plant
- How to Kill Mold in Wheatgrass
- How to Get Rid of Black Mold on a Magnolia Tree
- How to Clean Driveway Mold
- How to Clean Mold on Cement Outside on the Foundation
- How to Make Lightweight Concrete Molds
- How to Clean Mold From Walkways
- How to Make Fake Rocks for an Outside Waterfall
- How to Treat Mold on Daffodil Bulbs
- Treatments for Mold on Mulch
- How to Make Molds for Concrete Landscaping Bricks
- How to Remove Mold From a Concrete Path
- How to Kill Indoor Soil Mold
- How To Remove Mold from Dahlia Bulbs
- How to Kill Mold on a Dried Plum
- How to Make Your Own Concrete Weight Plates
- How to Remove Black Mold on Brick Steps
- How to Make Butter Pats
- How to Remove Green Mold From Plants
- White Mold Information
Hibiscus shrubs need generous, daily watering. These moist conditions help the plant produce bright, vibrant flowers. However, excessive moisture is also ideal for mold growth. Caring for hibiscus plants requires a working knowledge of white mold issues.
The most common white plant mold is mildew. Mildew damaged leaves contain white, fuzzy or powdery blotches. Cut off infected leaves and spray the plant with a general purpose fungicide.
Some rarer forms of mold, such as “silver leaf” or “honey” fungi, can appear on a hibiscus. These molds are usually grayish or yellow, but they sometimes appear white. Mold is a specific type of fungus, and a general purpose fungicide will kill these molds.
If you notice fine silk webbing on your hibiscus plant, you likely do not have a mold problem. Spider mites are likely the true culprit. Spider mite damage looks similar to mold growth, producing whitish leaf spots. Common chemical pesticides are usually not very effective against spider mites; kill spider mites with a soap-based insect spray.
Soak the seeds in hydrogen peroxide for five minutes to kill any mold spores that may be growing on the seeds.
Spray the growing wheatgrass with hydrogen peroxide once weekly to kill any mold spores that are growing on the grass.
Rinse the wheatgrass before juicing it.
Throw out any wheatgrass that has developed white or brown mold that is killing the plant. This mold is pathogenic. Destroy the plant and wash the seed tray with bleach before growing a new crop.
Inspect your magnolia tree for sooty mold. Sooty mold causes a velvety growth on leaves and bark. Look for sucking insects like aphids, mealybugs, soft scales, leafhoppers, whiteflies and psyllids. Check the tree above the infected tree, because the honeydew can drip onto the tree or vegetation underneath. You may also see ants crawling on the tree, because they are attracted to the honeydew.
Spray the tree in the mid-morning with a garden hose to dislodge some of the black mold and remove the bugs. By spraying in the morning, you give your tree time to dry before nightfall. Wet leaves can encourage other fungal growth.
Dilute 1 tsp. of detergent with 1 gallon of water. Spray the tree with the solution. The detergent is able to dry out many types of insects that have a waxy covering.
If insects still exist on your magnolia tree, apply a pesticide that is chemically formulated to kill the insects. Follow the pesticide directions and spray the entire tree. Repeat the process in a couple of weeks.
Prune any heavily damaged areas of your tree. Use bypass shears, lopping shears and a pruning saw. Cut to a healthy, outward-growing portion of the tree.
Fill a bucket with 1 gallon of warm water and 1/4 cup of laundry detergent. Put on rubber gloves and a cotton face mask.
Pour the bucket of detergent and water onto the driveway to soak it. Make more solution if needed to cover all of the moldy areas.
Scrub the driveway using a stiff-bristled broom or scrub brush.
Rinse the driveway with a garden hose and allow it to dry.
Fill a bucket with 1/4 to 1 cup of bleach and 1 gallon of warm water. Pour the solution onto the driveway and allow it to sit for 20 minutes.
Make another bleach solution and pour it onto the driveway. Wait 20 more minutes for the bleach to kill the mold.
Rinse the driveway thoroughly with a garden hose.
Prevent future mold with a borate solution. Mix 1/4 cup of borate detergent with 1 gallon of warm water in a bucket.
Pour the solution onto the driveway and allow it to dry. Don't rinse it. This can help prevent the growth of mold.
Spray mold off the foundation with a power washer. Keep the pressure at 3,000 psi or less to help prevent damage to the concrete. The hot temperature of the water combined with the force of the water pressure will blast most of the mold off the foundation in seconds.
Pour 3 qts. of warm water into a bucket and mix in 1 qt. of chlorine bleach and 1/3 cup of powdered laundry detergent. Wear rubber gloves to prevent chemical burns.
Dip a sponge into the bucket and apply the mixture to any remaining stains on the cement foundation. Let the mixture soak into the stains for several minutes.
Apply force with a scrub brush to any remaining mold to remove it from the foundation.
Rinse the affected areas of the foundation to remove any remaining traces of bleach. Once the cement dries, the mold stains should be gone.
Pour mold-making material, used for creating concrete molds, over your model. Be sure the mold material completely covers the object and forms a skin around it. In this case, you will use a simple object as your model, such as a sink. However, just about any object can be used for this purpose.
Allow the mold-making material to dry completely, until it forms a hard but rubbery shell. Peel the mold off the sink gently, so that it comes off in one piece.
Carve out a blocking shape (a backer for the rubber mold) into blocks of hobby foam. Use a razor to cut a general shape into the foam which matches the contours and dimensions of the model. Use the rubber mold as a guide and insert it into the carved out shape, once the general shape is cut into the foam. Shave off additional parts of the foam until the blocking shape supports your mold.
Insert the rubber mold into the blocking foam. The rubber mold must sit perfectly inside the foam. Press on the edges to ensure each side of the mold is supported by the foam.
Fill a bucket with 2 gallons of hot water. Add 2 cups of powdered oxygen bleach and allow it to dissolve for five minutes. Stir the mixture gently with a wooden spoon.
Pour the oxygen bleach solution over the moldy walkways. Allow it to sit for 20 minutes to clean the walkways and kill any mold.
Scrub the walkways lightly with a push broom.
Spray the walkways with a garden hose to rinse.
Push any standing water from the walkways with the broom.
Line your concrete molds with the mold liners designed for the molds or with plastic wrap. This makes it easier to get the faux rock out of the mold once it dries. You can purchase molds in many different shapes and sizes at home and garden centers.
Mix ready-mix concrete in a wheelbarrow. Follow the mixing directions for the specific brand of concrete you purchase to ensure the correct consistency.
Mix in the concrete pigment to add color to your concrete. For example, if you want your stone to look like lava rock, you can add in a brick color pigment. Follow the dosing directions printed on the container of pigment to ensure you add the correct amount. The total amount will differ depending on how much concrete you mix.
Fill the mold with the concrete mixture and level the mold off with a trowel. Allow 24 to 48 hours drying time.
Flip the mold over in your hand and pull the concrete out of the mold. The concrete will hold the form of the mold.
Wipe away any signs of blue-gray mold or black mold with a slightly damp, fresh paper towel. Allow the bulb surface to dry before storing it, or plant as usual.
Spray bulbs that have a smattering of white mold, but are still firm to the touch with a plant safe fungicide and allow them to dry for a week or so on a stack of newspaper or atop dry clean sand.
Discard bulbs with white mold that have softened with rot at any place on the bulb, as these are beyond saving with fungicide and can cause problems with other bulbs if they are stored together or planted.
Slime mold appears on mulch when it is hot and damp. When it appears, turn mulch over to loosen it. Water it to wash spores to the ground and let it air dry.
When the mold turns brown and hard, pick it up and throw it away. If it has mulch attached to it, turn it into the compost pile, where the spores will die. Scratch the mulch with a rake to improve circulation and water it. The mold is harmless, but wear gloves if you prefer not to touch it.
Mulches made from coarse, woody products are more likely to harbor slime mold. Buy finely ground bark mulch that has been composted. Always water newly installed mulch to wash mold spores into the soil.
Mix the silicone according to the manufacturer's instructions. The silicone will become the body of the mold used for making casts of landscaping bricks.
Choose a landscaping brick to be the model for the mold. Paint the top and sides of the brick with silicone. Use thick, even strokes to cover the brick. Do not cover the bottom portion of the brick.
Add six or seven layers of silicone to the brick. Allow each layer to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before adding another layer. The silicone should be thickening as each layer is added and dries.
Add an eighth layer and cover the wet silicone with strips of gauze. The gauze will become stiff in the mold and help it keep its shape. Allow the eighth layer to dry before adding two or three more layers.
Place the mold in a cool, dry place to allow it to dry completely. Do not move or touch the mold for at least 24 to 48 hours. When the mold has dried, peel it back from the brick to use it in creating concrete casts.
Fill a bucket with a mixture of four parts of water and one part of bleach.
Pour the mixture onto the concrete path, concentrating it on the areas where visible mold is growing. Allow the mixture to sit for five to 10 minutes to begin killing the mold.
Scrub the surface of the concrete path with a long-handled scrub brush. Use firm pressure and continue scrubbing until all traces of the mold is removed from the path.
Rinse the path off with a garden hose that has a sprayer attached to the end. Direct the water runoff away from desirable plants since the bleach may harm them.
Refill the bucket with one gallon of water and one to two tbsp. of dish soap. Insert the scrub brush into the bucket and scrub the surface of the concrete path to remove the remaining bleach residue.
Rinse the path again with the garden hose to remove the soap. Again direct the spray away from desirable plants.
Spray the soil surface with an appropriate fungicide. Follow the directions carefully.
Move the houseplant closer to a window or in more direct, brighter sunlight. This will help to keep the soil surface drier and prevent mold growth.
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of pea gravel on the soil surface. The pea gravel will also help to prevent mold growth on the soil.
Cut back on watering the houseplant, especially during the winter. Water the plant no more than once every two weeks, as most plants don’t require much water during their dormant season.
Put on your garden gloves. If you are sensitive to molds, you may wish to wear a dust mask to do this as well. Take the affected dahlia bulbs outdoors.
Brush mold off of one bulb at a time, using a soft-bristled brush, as recommended by the Portland Dahlia Society. Next, spray the bulb with a household disinfectant spray to kill remaining spores that you can’t see, as recommended by DahliaDivas.com.
Place each now-clean bulb in a clean box. Store the bulbs in an area with less humidity than previously, if possible. If it is not possible to move the bulbs to a dry area that is still cool enough for the bulbs, then you’ll need to check on them more frequently than once a week to catch new mold growth. DahliaDivas.com recommends storing the bulbs where it is between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fill a bowl with 16 ounces of vitamin C water (available at most supermarkets and drugstores).
Submerge the moldy dried plums in the water and leave on the counter to soak overnight.
Remove the dried plums from the vitamin C water. Rinse the plums with regular bottled or tap water.
Place the dried plums on a baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 45 minutes until they have dried again.
Leave out to cool. Once the dried plums are cooled, place in freezer storage bags and store in the freezer. Freezer bags and cold storage helps keep the dried plums from acquiring mold.
Mix the concrete per the instructions on the back of the bag or box. Pour the concrete mix into a 5-gallon plastic bucket, then add the water. Stir vigorously using a stirring stick.
Build a square wood mold in which you will pour the concrete. Cut 2-by-4-inch boards to the appropriate size for your mold, which is dependent on how heavy of a weight you require. Large molds will produce heavy plates, while small molds will produce lighter weights. Screw the pieces together using wood screws and a drill. Cut a square of plywood large enough to cover the back of the mold, then screw it into place.
Measure your barbel's bar diameter using a tape measure. Purchase a pipe with the same diameter. This will be the mold for the plate's hole.
Pour the concrete into the square mold. Insert the pipe piece into the center of the concrete. Allow the mix to dry.
Flip the mold upside down and pound the bottom with a hammer until the concrete comes out. Smack the center pipe mold if necessary, then pull it free.
Weigh the concrete plate on a scale and write its weight on the side of the plate and the mold using a marker. Make a smaller mold for a lighter weight, and a larger mold for a heavier weight.
Apply a mold remover, weed killer or mixture of one part chlorine bleach and one part water to the black spots on your steps. Leave the solution on the moldy areas for several minutes.
Scrub the mold with a brush with nylon bristles. To prevent damage to your skin, wear protective gloves.
Rinse the steps with a garden hose or pressure washer.
Repeat as necessary until you have completely removed the mildew.
Clean your brick steps once a month during humid or rainy seasons to prevent mold growth, especially if the area does not receive direct sunlight.
Soften butter by keeping it outside the refrigerator for about an hour.
Use a knife to spread the butter into a candy mold.
Flip the mold over to ensure that the butter is filling the mold completely.
Put in the freezer. When firm pop the butter out of the molds.
Place on cookie sheets between wax paper so that they don't stick together and put them back in the fridge.
Immediately remove any fruit infected with green mold. Once colonized, fruit cannot be salvaged and should be thrown away to prevent any further spread.
Wipe off all visible mold with a clean, damp cloth. Check the underside of leaves, stems and the base of the plant for a green wooly-like substance.
Spray your plant with a fungicide available at your local nursery. Follow all label directions carefully when mixing and applying.
Monitor your plant for any additional signs of mold. If new growth appears, repeat the above steps.
About White Mold
White mold is a fungus that attacks crops such as beans and nearly 400 other plants. It is common in cool, damp areas of the world and can kill plants if left untreated.
Prevention and Control
Because moisture is essential for the growth and spread of white mold, it is important to keep the leaves of certain crops dry. Drip irrigation around such plants is a good method for preventing damp foliage. Plant crops such as beans well apart from one another, according to seed packet instructions, to maximize air circulation.
Beans of all types are especially susceptible to white mold. Fruits, lettuce, potatoes, sunflowers, petunias and cabbage family plants are often the victims. It even attacks some weeds.
White mold can infect leaves, stems and pods of plants. Look for pale-looking, water-soaked lesions to cue you that a problem exists. Irregularly-shaped, hard, black spots can also occur. As the mold progresses, a cottony white mold appears, leaves become yellow then brown, and fall off. Eventually, the entire plant can die.
If you look for seeds that are resistant to white mold, the chances of an invasion will be greatly reduced. Allow your soil to dry out between waterings. If you plant your rows in the direction of the prevailing winds, air circulation will be improved and white mold will be less likely to occur. Destroy infected plants and practice crop rotation.
Other Methods of Control
Chemical fungicides are effective in controlling white mold. You must spray it when the plants are dry and be sure to cover the entire plant. Apply fungicide twice, a week apart, for it to be an effective cure.