Indigenous North Americans and early explorers utilized cottonwood for heating and cooking fires. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, for example, relied on riparian cottonwoods in otherwise treeless stretches of the Great Plains for these purposes. In general, however, cottonwood has a mediocre reputation as a firewood.
Because of its lightness, cottonwood does not produce a lot of heat, and it tends to burn out fairly quickly. The California Energy Commission reports that the tree generates between 15.8 and 16.8 BTUs (British thermal units) per cord.
Properly cured cottonwood is easy to cut and quick to light, so it can be a good choice for kindling, incorporated into fires with hotter and longer burning logs such as those of ash or oak.
Smoke and Ash
Burned cottonwood tends to produce quite a bit of ash. Wet cottonwood may smoke prolifically, but well-dried logs often don’t produce much smoke at all. As with any firewood, it’s important to season logs adequately to allow them to dry out -- often six months to a year.
Maintain daytime temperatures between 80 and 85 degrees F and nighttime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F.
Place Monstera deliciosa in an area where it will receive filtered sunlight. It can do well in shadier locations of the home, but the leaves may not develop the characteristic holes.
Water Monstera to keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season. In winter, allow the top inch of soil to dry prior to watering.
Fertilize the Monstera with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer, diluted to half the recommended strength, every two weeks during the growing season.
Redirect the thick, aerial roots back into the pot as they grow long enough.
Clean the foliage monthly with a soft, damp sponge or cloth.
Loosen the nut on the bolt that fastens the wedge to the hydraulic cylinder with a wrench to remove the wedge so it can be sharpened. While the log splitter is in the horizontal position, loosen the hydraulic hose clamp to disconnect the hose from the valve. Lift the cylinder, slide the wedge forward, and lift the wedge off the log splitter. Use a bench grinder to sharpen the wedge and then reassemble the wedge, cylinder and hydraulic hose.
Remove the breather cap from the fuel tank. Flush the cap with either kerosene or warm soapy water to remove the dirt and grime buildup. Allow the breather cap to dry thoroughly before reapplying it onto the fuel tank to avoid introducing water to the fuel system.
Remove the hydraulic oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Place an oil catch pan directly underneath the oil filter to collect any wasted oil. Replace the old filter with a new filter. The oil filter should be replaced after the first 25 hours of use and every 100 hours after that. If the log splitter is used less than 100 hours in a season, the oil filter should be replaced seasonally. Check the hydraulic oil level and top it off if needed.
A rick of firewood is officially four feet high, eight feet wide and 16 inches deep. A log rack that is big enough to accommodate a rick of wood will have inside dimensions that are equal to or slightly larger than these measurements.
Wait until the tillandsia pups reach at least 1 inch in size. But keep in mind that larger rosettes are easier to separate. The best time to split tillandsia pups is when they reach roughly one-third to one-half the size of their mothers.
Use a sharp pair of pruning shears to cut the pup from the mother plant. Then use your fingers to carefully pull its roots away from whatever substrate medium they have attached themselves to.
Use a few drops of glue (any type but silicone glue) to affix the tillandsia pup to its new substrate growing medium (you can also tie the plant onto the growing medium if you prefer not to use glue). This will keep it attached until its roots take over.
Mist the pup and the mother with water from a spray bottle.
Cut any remaining roots away from the trunk or stump of the tree by using an axe or a hatchet. You can use the dried roots as smaller kindling along with your firewood.
Place the round trunk upright onto a secure chopping block. You can use an existing flat level tree stump if one is available.
Place a splitting wedge just a couple of inches from dead center on the top of the tree trunk. Tap the wedge in place just an inch or two with a sledgehammer or a smaller maul.
Stand in front of the trunk holding a sledgehammer securely with both hands at waist level. Bring the sledgehammer up across your body and over your head. Slam the sledgehammer down onto the splitting wedge with extreme force.
Finish by cleaving with an axe, or replace the wedge and continue splitting with the sledgehammer until the wood has been split to your satisfaction.
Place the log you wish to cut upright on a flat, even surface -- preferably on top of a second, larger log so that if you accidentally cut too far, you're just cutting into more wood. Do not put the log on its side, as doing so may cause it to roll away as you cut.
Place the chainsaw on the ground and steady it with one hand, then use the other hand to start the motor. You may also use your foot to steady the chainsaw by standing on the handle behind the blade.
Bring the blade to just above the top of the log where you want the cut to be made.
Pull the trigger to start the cutting blade, then lower the blade into the log.
Pull the blade down smoothly through the wood. Do not try to force the blade, as this can cause the chain to gum up and the saw to kick back violently against you.
Continue cutting until you've gotten all the way through the log.
Release the trigger and pull the chainsaw away from the log, then lubricate the chain blade with WD-40. This will help prevent the blade from seizing as you cut.
Repeat these steps until you've finished splitting all your logs.
Cut your oak firewood logs to an appropriate length before splitting. The longer the log is, the more difficult it will be to split and vice versa. If you are new to splitting firewood, it is probably a good idea to start with approximately 12-inch logs.
Place your oak firewood log upright on one end on the chopping block. A solid tree trunk makes an ideal surface to split wood on.
Look for any hairline cracks or other weaknesses in the firewood as they make an ideal place to aim for.
Stand with your feet shoulder width apart and securely grasp your wood splitter's maul with both hands. Position your hands so that your dominant hand is near the head of the maul and your other hand is toward the end of the handle.
Focus your eyes on a spot near the edge of the log. Do not aim directly in the center.
Bring back the axe with your dominant hand going over your shoulder while maintaining focus on the log. While in motion, slide your dominant hand downward so that it meets your other hand.
Swing your maul down onto the firewood. Bend your knees and waist when delivering the blow.
Pull the maul out of the firewood if you do not split it on the first try. Pivot the maul head back and forth from front to back. Do not pivot side to side because this can break the maul head off of the handle.
Aim for the same place again until you have successfully split the oak firewood.