Concrete pads develop problems such as cracking and scaling, which is also called spalling; and a disintegration of the concrete, due to improper installation, incorrect concrete mixes or the use of salt on the surface. These problems are correctable and a new pad is not required.
Repairing Concrete Pad Cracks
Strike a cold chisel with a heavy ball-peen hammer along the edge of the crack to chip away loose concrete and create a straight line. It is easier to patch a straight lined area than a spidering crack.
Place the cold chisel at a 45-degree angle to undercut the crack and prevent the patch from lifting in the future. The crack needs to be wider at the base after chiseling.
Brush the edges of the crack with a wire brush to clean away debris. Sweep the debris out of the crack with a small broom.
Paint the edges of the crack with an epoxy-based concrete bonding agent.
Mix concrete according to the bag direction and fill the crack with wet concrete. Use a trowel to level the concrete with the existing surface.
Repairing Scaling or Spalling on a Concrete Pad
Use an 8-lb. masonry hammer to break up as much of the scaled area as possible.
Sweep away dust and debris. Use a stiff wire brush to further loosen and remove scaling concrete. Sweep the area clean.
Paint the broken area with an epoxy-based concrete bonding agent.
Mix an epoxy-based concrete patching material according to the bag directions. Epoxy-based concrete patches come pre-mixed in a dry state; add water to create a wet product.
Apply the patch with a trowel making it flush with the existing concrete surface and feathering it lightly at the edges. Feathering means to make the application thinner and thinner as it extends past the patch.
Excavate the site for the slab, digging an 8-inch-deep recess in the ground. Level the area by digging out high spots and compact the soil with a compactor machine to squeeze out air pockets.
Assemble 2-by-4-inch pressure-treated boards against the interior sides of the recess to form a box frame, with the 2-inch side on the bottom. Set additional boards directly on top so that the frame is the height of two boards, in order to cover the 8-inch-deep walls. Screw the boards together with 2½-inch screws and a drill. Brace the frame by inserting 1-by-3 inch garden stakes along the outside of the boards and in the corners.
Pour 4 inches of aggregate and rake it evenly over the bottom of the recess. Compact the aggregate until the surface is hard and flat.
Lay wire mesh over the top to reinforce the concrete. If you're pouring a large pad, lay rebar near the ends and through the center.
Dampen the aggregate when you are ready to pour the concrete pad to help it adhere to the base.
The size of a concrete slab is a major contributor to the overall cost. According to costhelper, a 200 square-foot slab costs $1,000 to $2,000, while a 1,600 square-foot slab costs upward of $6,000 as of 2011.
If minor construction is required to pour a concrete pad on your property, expect to pay thousands of dollars more for the project. Construction involves using heavy machinery to dig and flatten the land, and remove trees or other large plants.
Do-it-yourself concrete pad installations typically are less than half of the cost of hiring a professional, according to costhelper, but unless you're experienced in pouring concrete, it is best to hire a professional.
Concrete pads can be stamped or colored to add decorative patterns. These additions add hundreds of dollars to the cost of your project, depending on how much extra work is required to add these features.
Lay your generator mounting base over the cement pad you need to mount it to. Move the base at least 6 inches away from any edge of the pad. This will ensure the concrete doesn't crack.
Draw a small dot in each of the holes that are on the mounting bracket and remove the bracket from the slap. Measure the diameter of the bolts that came with the bracket and drill a hole equaling that diameter where each of the dots is.
Pound each bolt through the mounting bracket and into the holes that you drilled. Stop when they only have 1 inch more to go. Tighten each bolt using your wrench until it is snug. Do not over-turn the bolts, so they can be pulled out.
Set the generator on the mounting base or slide it onto the mounting base. How you mount it depends on your model, and your owner's manual will provide information on which action to perform.
Secure the Generac generator to the base using your wrench set and by following the instructions in the manual.