- How to Install a False Floor Over Concrete
- How to Seal Concrete Floors Before Tiling
- How to Prepare Concrete Floor for Epoxy Paint
- How to Install a Bump-Out Addition
- How to Fix Scuffs on Stained Concrete Floors
- How to Level the Floor for Carpet Installation
- How to Mount Bar Stools
- How to Float a Concrete Floor
- How to Dry Concrete Floors
- Do You Need a Concrete Floor for a Sauna?
- How to Identify Asbestos in a Garage Floor
- How to Resurface Cement Basement Floors
- How to Seal Concrete Floors
- How to Sand Garage Floors
- How to Reseal My Concrete Floor
- How to Open a Sentry Floor Safe
- How to Resurface a Garage Floor
Concrete floors are not very desirable within a home. Not only are they cold and unpleasant to look at, they often seep moisture into the home. To add vinyl flooring or hardwood floors, you need to install a false floor over the concrete. This is called a subfloor. The subfloor is made of wooden boards. The boards prevent the fluctuating temperature of the concrete and the moisture it can produce from destroying the aesthetically pleasing floor that sits on top.
Measure the length and width of the room and multiply the two figures to get the square footage of the room. Use the measurement to order the particleboard.
Place a long 2-by-4 on the floor and use it to check for low spots. Low spots will leave gaps beneath the 2-by-4. Fill in holes with concrete putty, smoothing them down with a trowel and sanding them even with the rest of the floor.
Set the particleboard in the installation room and allow it to sit for 24 to 48 hours to adjust to room temperature.
Place the first pieces of particleboard along the wall farthest from the door to the room. Leave a 3/8-inch gap between the wall and the board to allow for expansion over time.
Lay all the particleboards out on the floor, placing them perpendicular to each other. Stagger each row like brickwork so none of the board corners are touching. Cut boards to size using a circular saw if you require a partial piece.
Apply galvanized ring grooved underlayment nails to the panels, starting in the middle of the boards and working out toward the ends. Apply the nails every 6 to 10 inches, going no closer than a 1/2-inch from the edge of the boards and no farther than 3/4 of an inch away.
Remove objects from the floor and sweep up loose debris with a push broom.
Take the screw cap off the top of a pump sprayer and place a funnel into the opening.
Slowly pour a concrete degreaser into the sprayer tank.
Remove the funnel and fasten the screw cap.
Pump the sprayer as instructed in the user's guide and apply the degreaser to the floor with long, even swipes of the sprayer's wand.
Wait 12 to 15 minutes for the degreaser to break up any oil stains or deposits, then scrub the concrete with a nylon brush.
Rinse down the entire surface with a hose. Wait for the concrete to dry completely before continuing with the sealing process.
Fill a paint tray with concrete sealant.
Run the end of the paint roller through the sealant so that it is evenly covered and then apply the sealant onto the concrete with long, even strokes. Make parallel strokes with the paint roller that are overlapping slightly so that you cover the entire surface. Once you have covered the entire floor, wait 24 hours for the sealant to dry before beginning the tiling job.
Remove any furniture and clutter from the concrete floor.
Use a broom to sweep away any dust or dirt from the concrete floor.
Use a metal putty knife to scrape up any thick mud or sticky material from the concrete floor.
Scrub away any greasy areas with a chemical degreasing agent and a coarse brush.
Use a pressure washer to thoroughly clean the concrete floor. Use a wet vacuum if a pressure washer isn't available.
Use water to dilute the muriatic acid. Refer to the labeling on the product for the specific amount of water.
Use the spray nozzle included in the kit to apply the muriatic acid to the concrete floor.
Wait 15 to 20 minutes for the muriatic acid to etch the concrete floor. Rinse the floor thoroughly with a water hose.
Repeat Steps 7 and 8 until the concrete surface feels rough to the touch.
Find out the floor height of your home's regular floor level. To find out this height, you must pull siding off of a spot on the outside at the bottom of your home. This exposes your floor system band and your sub-floor. You can either build your bump-out floor to match your existing floor level, or you can raise or lower your bump-out floor.
Determine the size area you need for the type of bump-out addition you are going to install. You might need to clear some trees and make room in your yard to accommodate the addition.
Decide if you want to install your bump-out addition on a crawl space or just an expanded floor system. You can use either. A crawl space will require footings and block laid. An expanded floor system will require pier holes filled with concrete for the uprights to support the floor system. You can also simply pour a concrete slab for your bump-out addition, if your terrain will allow for it.
Consider the example of using a concrete slab to install a bump-out addition. When your slab is ready, raise your outside walls. Then, put your ceiling joists in. Your roof system must come next. Put plywood and felt on your roof system. Finish with shingles.
Sweep the scuffed area floor with a broom to remove loose dirt and grime.
Rub the scuff diagonally with a dry paper towel. Remove as much of the mark from the floor as possible.
Inspect the affected area for remaining traces of the scuff mark. If more cleaning is necessary, mix 1 cup of warm water, 1 tsp. of liquid dish soap and 1 tsp. of household ammonia in a plastic bowl.
Dampen a nonabrasive nylon sponge in the solution. Blot the scuff with the damp sponge until the mark is completely removed. Frequently rinse the sponge with fresh water to prevent reapplying grime to the floor.
Dampen a clean cotton rag with warm water. Wipe the floor with the damp cloth to rinse away the solution.
Dry the floor with a clean cotton towel. Repeat the procedure if necessary.
Sweep and mop the wood floor, getting it completely clean. Use a well-wrung mop to avoid saturating the floor with liquid. Let it dry overnight.
Go over the floor with a hammer and metal scraper, hammering down any nail heads sticking up and scraping off any splinters or other obstructions. Re-sweep to remove any debris.
Fit your drill with its mixing attachment. Put 2 to 3 inches of floor leveler in the bottom of a bucket. Add water in the ratio called for on the packaging.
Set the mixer in the bucket and blend well. Add a little more powder or water as needed to make a thin, watery compound. Don't make more of it than you can use in 5 to 10 minutes.
Pour the liquid into the seams, holes and low areas in the wood floor, starting at one corner and working your way out. Use your concrete trowel to smooth out any high spots as you pour it, but the liquid should generally find its own level. Do the whole floor, mixing more leveler as needed. Allow the leveler to set for at least four hours.
Mark on your cement floor where the bar stools are going to be mounted and where all of the bolts have to be anchored.
Drill a hole at each of these marks with the star drill bit for concrete. The holes should be 4 inches deep. Clean out the holes by vacuuming up the drilling debris. Pour water into the holes and scrub the sides with a stiff bristle brush. Use paper towels to soak up the excess water but leave the holes damp.
Mix the quick-drying anchor cement according to the packaging instructions. Once the cement is of pourable consistency, place a bolt with a washer resting against the head in the hole, head down. Pour the cement into the hole and around the bolt. Let it sit and set for 45 minutes.
Place bar stool over bolts and secure into place by tightening the bolt to the base of the bar stool with a counter stool wrench. Slide the bell cover down to hide the bolts.
Pour the concrete in the forms and screed or strike off the concrete level with the top of the form. Allow the concrete to set until water no longer accumulates on the surface.
Pull the float across the top of the cement. The float levels the concrete and pushes aggregate down within the slab, bringing the cement paste to the top. Hold the float so the leading edge is above the concrete surface to prevent gouging. This requires raising the long handle of the bull float and may entail overhead lifting.
Work the bull float in both directions, if possible. Make several passes over the cement slab centering the float over the edges of the previous float passes.
Finish the concrete floor in the desired manner. This can include a smooth trowel finish or a broom finish for additional traction.
Remove all carpeting, rugs and padding from the floor and store them out of the way.
Open windows and doors. Air needs to circulate around the concrete for it to dry.
Set up fans or air blowers around the floor. These machines bring in more circulating air and are good alternatives to keeping the doors and windows open.
Place a large dehumidifier on the floor. This machine removes any moisture from the air. It also filters the air, which cuts down on mold and mildew.
Wait several hours or a few days for the concrete floor to dry. The length of time depends on how large the concrete floor is and how much water it absorbed.
A concrete floor is one of the least expensive and easily maintained floors that you can use in a sauna. Concrete floors will be less susceptible to the moisture build-up that occurs and can be textured to avoid becoming slippery. Most saunas will maintain a fairly low temperature near the floor.
The type of material used for the sauna floor depends partly upon where you build the sauna. You likely won't need to pour a concrete floor if you're putting a sauna in your home. But you will have to consider ventilation and the sauna's effect on your home's flooring material. For outdoor saunas, a concrete floor is desirable mainly because of its durability. Install the floor so that it is slightly sloped to ensure proper drainage.
You can use any other material you wish for your sauna floor as long as it tolerates water. For instance, tile will work just fine and provide a more decorative look than concrete. Heavy duty vinyl and sealed cement can also be used. Wooden floors are not generally recommended because wood tends to absorb moisture and can harbor bacterial growth.
Regardless of the floor material you choose, you will need to guard against moisture buildup and potential bacterial growth. Use a water-resistant sealant that's appropriate for your floor. Sealants also make it easier to clean the floor.
Strike your garage floor with the tip of a screwdriver and listen to the resulting sound. Asbestos cement, usually installed in large sheets, tends to make a drum-like sound when struck. Unlike regular cement, it does not make a solid thudding noise.
Look at the edges of your garage floor (where your driveway meets, for example). Asbestos cement is more prone to chipping and fracture along the edges than regular cement.
Pick a discreet part of your garage floor and use a hammer and chisel to chip out a small piece of cement. Go to a well-lit area and look at the chip through a magnifying glass. If you see an abundance of fibrous material mixed with the concrete, your garage floor contains asbestos cement.
Test the sample. Take your cement sample to a registered asbestos testing facility if you are unsure. Local laboratories can be found in a telephone directory or an online search.
Fill in any areas of the floor with a cement filler, if necessary. Use a trowel to level the filler with the floor. Allow the filler to dry.
Remove any rough spots on the floor with a multi-disc sander/grinder. The disc for the first standing should have a medium-grit range.
Place a 300-grit disc on your sanding machine. Sand the floor again until it is smooth.
Sand the floor one more time with a disc in the 1000-grit range.
Brush and vacuum up all dirt, dust and debris from your floor.
Clean the floor thoroughly with a cement cleaner. These products are readily available at home improvement and hardwood stores. Allow sufficient time for the floor to dry.
Brush a coat of epoxy concrete floor paint on your floor in small circles. Check to make sure the concrete has no brush marks.
Allow the paint to dry for the time recommended on its label. Apply at least one more coat of paint to your floor.
Allow the area to remain untouched for as long as is practicable in order for the floor to cure.
Buff your cement floor with the sander and a buffing disc.
Sweep the concrete floor clean of any dust or debris.
Fill a bucket with water and damp mop the entire floor. Let the floor dry completely before continuing on with these steps.
Open your sealant and pour the contents into a paint tray.
Roll the sealant onto the concrete floor using a paint roller with a long enough handle that you can apply it while standing upright (this will cause less back strain). Cover the entire floor and wait for this first coat to dry (read the manufacturer's recommended drying time on your product). Apply a second coat. Wait for this to dry and your concrete floor is sealed.
Sand off any rough spots on the floor with a multi-disc sander fitted with a metal-mesh diamond disc. (See resources for examples of concrete sanding/grinding machines.) Sand as many times as needed until the rough spots are gone.
Place a 300-grit disc on your sanding machine and sand the floor until it has a clean, smooth surface.
Use a trowel to apply a coat of cement feather finish to your floor. Feather finish is available at hardware and home improvement stores.
Allow the feather finish to dry for three hours.
Sand the floor one more time with a very fine sanding disc of at least 1,000 grit.
Sweep and vacuum the floor to remove all dust and debris from the sanding.
Apply a cement polisher to the floor. Place a buffing disc on your sanding machine and buff the floor.
Run the dust mop over the area in overlapping swipes until you have mopped the entire floor. Remove all dust and debris.
Vacuum the floor to ensure you pick up any fibers or dust.
Mix together 2 ounces white vinegar with 1 gallon of hot water in a bucket.
Scrub the floor with a mop to remove any sticky spots or unseen spills. Discard the water and rinse off the mop.
Rinse the floor with the mop and a bucket of plain water.
Vacuum any standing water; wait at least 24 hours.
Apply the sealer to the floor following the manufacturer's instructions. Typically, this requires you apply the sealer to the floor with a roller and a painting drip pan. Start in a far corner and work your way across the room, moving back and forth until you have sealed the entire room.
Wait for the sealant to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions, which normally is about two hours. Don't wait for longer than the manufacturer recommends or the sealant may harden too much and not bond properly.
Allow the sealant to cure over the next three to four days, or according to manufacturer's instructions.
Turn the waterproof lid counterclockwise and lift it from the Sentry floor safe.
Turn the combination dial until it points to zero.
Turn the dial to the left continuously until zero passes the pointer at least four times. Stop at the first number of your combination.
Turn the dial to the right continuously until the third time you reach the second number of your combination.
Turn the dial to the left continuously until the second time the pointer reaches the third number of your combination.
Turn the dial to the right and stop when you first reach the last number of your combination.
Pull on the door handle to open the safe.
Reduce your floor down to the appropriate level with a shot blaster. (See "Resources" for shot blasters, sander/grinder machines and other floor machines). Follow the instructions in the manual for the machine.
Sand off any rough spots on the floor with a multi-disc sander/grinder equipped with a metal-mesh diamond disc.
Attach a 300-grit disc on your sanding machine. Sand the concrete floor until it is smooth to the touch.
Apply a feather finish to your garage floor with a trowel. The coat of feather finish should be very thin, just enough to cover the floor. Allow three or four hours for the finish to dry.
Sand the floor again with your finest-grain sanding disc. This disc should have a grit in the 1,000 range.
Clean up the garage floor with a broom and vacuum.
Apply a cement finish (or polisher) to your floor. Start at the edges of the garage floor and apply the finish with a small brush, and then use a roller to finish the rest of the floor.
Allow your floor to dry and apply at least one more coat of finish.
Buff your resurfaced floor with the sanding machine and a buffing disc.