- Installation Instructions for Concrete Parking Blocks
- How to Correct Shifted Concrete Blocks
- How to Fill Cinder Blocks
- How to Cut Concrete Block Wall Caps
- What Does a Concrete Block Weigh?
- How to Mortar a Concrete Block Wall
- How to Install R-Tech Rigid Insulation on a Cinder Block
- How to Cap a Cement Block
- How to Calculate Concrete Thrust Blocks
- Concrete Block Landscaping Ideas
- How to Build a Cement Block Compost Bin
- How to Cut Concrete Landscape Block
Establishing parking spaces in an open area or setting them up for the first time in a parking lot can often be done with the use of parking blocks. Instead of just setting concrete parking blocks on the ground, you need to install them properly, so the blocks will stop cars from pulling too far forward into the parking spaces. Installing concrete parking blocks is not difficult and can be done in an afternoon.
Block off the area before you begin to ensure no one attempts to park where you’re working. Use cones or tape. Determine how many parking blocks you want to use. Multiple the number of blocks by the number of holes in each block to know how many rebar spikes to use.
Place each parking block where you want it to be installed. Make a tick mark on the ground with chalk to mark each hole of each block. Move the blocks away.
Drill a hole at each marked point with the hammer drill to break the surface of the asphalt to at least 3 inches deep. Replace each parking block after the holes are drilled. Align the holes in the block with the holes in the asphalt.
Slip a washer onto a piece of rebar. Set the rebar through a hole in the block and into the hole in the ground. Position a spike at each hole. Drive the spikes down with a sledgehammer one at a time until the head of each spike is close to the surface of the parking block.
Drive the spikes gently until the head of the spikes are snug against the parking block. Do not hit the spike further once it is snug. Continue until each block is installed.
Dig a hole outside the damaged wall. Dig to a depth below the damaged portion of the wall.
Working from the inside, drill small holes, six inches apart, in the concrete blocks. Drill through to the hole outside the wall.
Insert galvanized steel rods into the holes in the concrete blocks.
Insert helical screw heads onto the steel rods. Using a hydraulic torque motor, screw the helical screws into the soil until they are firmly set.
Insert a solid threaded bar into each helical anchor. Fit the inside end of the rod through the hole in a steel retaining plate. Screw a nut onto each bar to hold the bars in place.
After all rods and plates are in place, tighten the nuts on the rods to pull the concrete blocks back into position.
Determine how much concrete you will need to do your job using an online calculator (see Resources).
Place your cinder blocks into position with the holes facing up and down.
Cut the rebar to the proper height, if necessary, using the hydraulic bolt cutter. Position the rebar in each block's hole, driving them approximately 2 inches into the ground. Look at the rebars to make sure they are straight. If not, reposition them so they are.
Cut open a bag of concrete mix with a knife and dump it into your wheelbarrow. Slowly add ¾ gallon of water. Thoroughly mix the concrete with a shovel. Add more water and mix it in. Scrape to the bottom of the wheelbarrow and continue to mix the concrete until no dry mix remains. You should achieve a clay-like consistency with your final mix.
Shovel the concrete into the cinder block's holes. Compact the concrete with a trowel.
Measure with a tape measure and mark the desired length on the concrete block wall cap. Extend the line across the cap's surface, using a pencil and hand square.
Place the concrete wall cap on a flat, secure surface and hold firmly in place.
Cut the cap block on the cutline, using a circular saw equipped with a masonry blade, starting at one side and moving slowly through the cut until completed.
Concrete blocks are used in the construction industry. They are commonly used in the construction of walls.
Concrete blocks are typically composed of a mixture of cement, water, sand and gravel. This results in the block's gray color.
The standard size of a concrete block is 8 inches tall, 8 inches deep and 16 inches wide.
A concrete block can weigh between 38 to 50 lbs.
Concrete blocks are rectangular in shape and are hollow to reduce their weight and to reduce waste of building material.
Spread a 3/8-inch layer of mortar with a trowel into the bed where you intend to lay the concrete blocks. In the case of solid concrete blocks, lay a continuous layer, as you might for laying brick. If you are working with cinder blocks, lay two beads along the outside of the bed, corresponding to the outside edges of the cinder blocks.
Butter your first block. Solid blocks receive a solid, 3/8-inch thick sheet of mortar on both ends of the block. For a cinder block, grasp the block by the pylon in the middle and sculpt two lines of mortar onto both sides of one end of the block.
Set the block into the bed, placing one end flush with the adjoining wall or block so the mortar has a firm, solid grip. Then tap the top and the un-mortared side of the block with your trowel, to help the block settle.
Continue laying block until you have reached the end of the row. Every two or three blocks, stop and check your work with a level to ensure you have mortared the block on a straight and even course.
Coat the cinder block walls with concrete sealant using a paintbrush or roller. Allow the sealant to dry for at least 30 minutes, and then apply a second coat of sealant.
Coat one side of a sheet of R-Tech rigid foam insulation with construction adhesive using a paintbrush. Place the insulation sheet on one wall so that one side meets the corner of the wall. Press the board against the wall, and hold it in place for two to three minutes to allow the adhesive to bond the sheet to the wall.
Continue coating the R-Tech rigid foam insulation sheets with construction adhesive. Press the sheets against your cinder block walls, fitting the edges of each sheet tightly together to prevent insulation gaps. Cut the sheets with a utility knife as necessary to obtain the proper sizes and accommodate ductwork, electrical outlets and other obstacles.
Fill the holes in the concrete block by pouring soil or concrete inside. Add water to premixed concrete and mix it in a bucket or wheelbarrow with a shovel or trowel. Follow the instructions for the ratio of premixed concrete to water.
Smooth the top of the concrete block with a trowel after it has been filled. Ensure the block is level.
Apply concrete adhesive liberally around the top of the concrete block. Use a brush or caulking gun, depending on the type of adhesive you are using.
Position the concrete cap on top of the block. Align it so it is even and in the desired position.
Fill in any spaces and cracks with mortar.
Wipe off any excess adhesive or mortar with the trowel.
Determine the thrust value by multiplying the internal pressure by the square of the outside diameter by the mathematical value π (pi) by one quarter (0.25). The internal pressure should be measured in pounds per square inch (psi).
Divide the thrust by the allowable soil bearing capacity, measured in pounds per square feet. The allowable soil bearing capacity is a regulated standard charted by your local municipality. It varies depending on the kind of soil, sand or rock that the pipes travel through.
Multiply the quotient by 1.5. The result is the necessary area that your concrete thrust block must cover, measured in square feet.
Decorative Garden Wall
Concrete blocks come in more designs than what most people picture, namely the heavy block with two holes. While those can be very useful in a garden setting, more attractive blocks, with a lacy appearance, can be used to create beautiful walls to separate a section of the garden or even enclose it with a short wall. Simply stack the blocks, securing them with mortar to whatever height you choose. As with any free-standing wall, be sure to first dig a trench and set the first row of blocks in the ground, building up from there.
Concrete Block Planters
The commonly pictured concrete block makes for an easy garden edge/planter combination. Simply lay out the blocks with the holes facing upwards. Line your garden, your deck, your walkway or other area with as many blocks as you like. Completely edge the garden/deck/etc. or lay out a few blocks for just one side. Fill the holes with potting soil and dirt, then plant flowers to create an edge of continuous blooms. With the blocks, it'll be harder for weeds to creep up and inside. To make certain, however, use plastic liner beneath the blocks first.
Concrete Block Bench
For a more creative use, stack and mortar the concrete blocks to form the legs of a bench. Add a plywood plank across the top and you have a simple garden bench. Be sure to treat the plywood with sealant to slow down the effects of weathering. For a nicer bench top, use wooden planks. Cedar and cypress are weather resistant and require less treatment. You may also use redwood or other hard woods that could be stained or painted.
Dig a trench that is 4 inches deep and 2 inches wider than your concrete blocks for your block foundation. Pour sand into the trench to a depth of 2 inches.
Tamp the sand down with a tamping tool. Ensure that the sand is level with a carpenter’s tool.
Lay in your first course of blocks, leaving a 3-inch space between each block for air to pass through. Ensure that the blocks are level by measuring with the carpenter’s tool.
Stagger your second course of concrete blocks so that the spaces between the blocks on the second course align with the middle of the blocks on the first course. Interlock the corners of your bin for a sturdier structure. Continue to check the level to make sure that all blocks on your second row are even.
Lay in two more courses so that your bin is four courses high.
Cut landscape blocks with a brick chisel and a sledgehammer. Score the blocks using a chisel and hammer. Place the chisel on the scored line and strike it with the sledgehammer. If there is a mark on the back of each block, you can use it to determine the center.
Score block with a circular saw's masonry blade. Use a hammer and chisel to split the block.
Use a masonry saw with a diamond blade. This method allows you to cut completely through the block without using a hammer and chisel. Adjust the saw blade depth to the thickness of the block and cut the block apart.
Use a metal chop saw. Attach a diamond cutting blade to the chop saw. Place the block under the saw. Press the chop saw down on the block at the desired cutting spot.