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How to Take Care of a Woolly Rose

By M.H. Dyer ; Updated September 21, 2017

Native to Mexico, woolly rose (Echeveria Doris Taylor) is one of the prettiest of all the low-growing succulents. Woolly rose echeveria is especially attractive because the fine white hairs covering the rosettes of plump, red-tipped leaves give the leaves a fuzzy appearance. Large, bright orange, spiky flowers will bloom during the summer, attracting hummingbirds to the garden. Woolly rose can be grown in the ground, or it can be grown in a patio container or as a houseplant, and once established will require very little care. Although woolly rose will tolerate light frosts, it won't survive climates with freezing winters.

Plant woolly rose where it will be exposed to morning sunlight and afternoon shade. Woolly rose will grow in poor soil, as long as the soil drains well, but it won't survive in areas where rainwater pools for more than three or four hours. To grow woolly rose in a container, use a container with a drainage hole, and fill the container with potting soil for succulents or cactus.

Water woolly rose sparingly beginning in early spring, and allow the soil to dry out between each watering. During the peak of summer heat, woolly rose will benefit from more frequent watering, but never allow the soil to become soggy, as woolly rose, like all succulents, is susceptible to root rot.

Feed woolly rose every two to three weeks during spring and autumn, using a cactus or tomato fertilizer. During July, August and September woolly rose should only be fertilized once a month.

 

Things You Will Need

  • Container with drainage hole
  • Potting soil for cactus and succulents
  • Cactus or tomato fertilizer

Tip

  • Woolly rose can be propagated by simply planting a leaf. Cut a plump leaf from a healthy plant with a clean, sharp knife, and set the leaf aside in a warm room until the cut forms a callus, about 10 days. Fill a small pot with sand or potting soil for cactus, and plant cut end of the leaf in the soil. Keep the potting soil barely damp. In a few weeks, the leaf will form tiny plantlets, and eventually, the original leaf will die.

About the Author

 

M.H. Dyer began her writing career as a staff writer at a community newspaper and is now a full-time commercial writer. She writes about a variety of topics, with a focus on sustainable, pesticide- and herbicide-free gardening. She is an Oregon State University Master Gardener and Master Naturalist and holds a Master of Fine Arts in creative nonfiction writing.