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How to Grow Red Creeping Sedum

By M.H. Dyer ; Updated September 21, 2017

Creeping red sedum (Sedum spurium) is an easy-to-grow, attractive succulent. In summer, creeping red sedum's colorful foliage will be pale red, turning deep red by autumn. Dainty reddish flowers will cover the creeping red sedum in July and August. Creeping red sedum will thrive even in poor soil, as long as it's well-drained.

Purchase creeping red sedum bedding plants in spring or fall, or start your own creeping red sedum from existing plants. Cut the tip of a stem about 4 inches long, and plant it in a pot filled with good quality commercial potting soil. Put the pot in filtered light, in a cool room, and keep the soil moist. In 3 to 4 weeks, the creeping red sedum should be ready to be planted outdoors.

Select a spot for the creeping red sedum. It's crucial that the soil drains well, so avoid places where rain water tends to pool for more than 4 hours. If you live in a hot climate, choose a place where the creeping red sedum will be exposed to morning sunlight, but will be in the shade during the hottest part of the day.

Cultivate the soil with a tiller, hoe or shovel. Work the soil to a depth of at least 8 inches, then mix in 2 to 3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure.

Use a trowel to dig a hole the height of each creeping sedum plant, and two to three times as wide. Plant the creeping red sedum in the hole, and add reserved soil to fill the hole. Tamp the soil down lightly with the trowel. Leave 3 to 4 inches between each creeping sedum plant.

Water the creeping red sedum thoroughly immediately after planting, then keep the soil lightly moist. Be careful not to over water creeping red sedum, as the roots will rot in too much moisture.

Spread 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch around the creeping red sedum, but don't allow the mulch to pile up on the plant. Mulch will keep the soil moist, enrich the soil, and control weeds.

 

Things You Will Need

  • Creeping red sedum bedding plants
  • Pot and commercial potting soil (optional)
  • Tiller, hoe or shovel
  • Compost or well-rotted manure
  • Trowel
  • Organic mulch

About the Author

 

M.H. Dyer began her writing career as a staff writer at a community newspaper and is now a full-time commercial writer. She writes about a variety of topics, with a focus on sustainable, pesticide- and herbicide-free gardening. She is an Oregon State University Master Gardener and Master Naturalist and holds a Master of Fine Arts in creative nonfiction writing.