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How to Care for a Pixie Lily Flower

By M.H. Dyer ; Updated September 21, 2017

Pixie lilies are sturdy, diminutive, dwarf Asiatic lilies that will grow to in the 1- to 2-foot range, about half the size of regular Asiatic lilies. Like their larger cousins, pixie lilies are available in a variety of luscious colors, including orange, buff yellow and creamy white. Pixie lilies do well in a border or small garden where they won't get lost amidst larger plants, and they are well-suited for containers.

Plant pixie lily bulbs where the soil drains well and the plants will be exposed to full sunlight. Cultivate the soil with a spade to a depth of at least 10 inches before planting. Work in 2 to 4 inches of compost or manure. To plant pixie lilies in containers, use a container filled with commercial potting soil. Plant the bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep.

Saturate the pixie lily bulbs with water immediately after planting.

Protect the roots of lilies planted in the ground with a 4- to 6-inch layer of organic matter such as compost, shredded bark or leaves. After the first year, the plants will need no winter protection. Leave the mulch in place until all danger of frost has passed in the spring.

Bring containerized pixie lilies indoors during the winter months. Place the pot where the nighttime temperatures will be cool, between 55 and 60 degrees F. Keep the soil slightly moist.

Fertilize pixie lilies every spring, using a 5-10-10 fertilizer. Apply a granular or time-release fertilizer according to label directions.

Deadhead or remove spent blooms to prevent the plant from going to seed too early. Remove wilted flowers to promote continued blooming as long as possible. Leave the foliage in place until it dies and turns yellow.

Divide pixie lilies every three to five years, or when the growth seems to slow. Dig the entire clump with a garden fork. Separate it into smaller clumps by hand. Discard any clump that is old and woody. Re-plant the clumps.

 

Things You Will Need

  • Spade
  • Compost or manure
  • Container with drainage hole
  • Commercial potting soil
  • Organic material
  • Garden fork
  • Granular or time-release 5-10-10 fertilizer

About the Author

 

M.H. Dyer began her writing career as a staff writer at a community newspaper and is now a full-time commercial writer. She writes about a variety of topics, with a focus on sustainable, pesticide- and herbicide-free gardening. She is an Oregon State University Master Gardener and Master Naturalist and holds a Master of Fine Arts in creative nonfiction writing.