Peonies - Garden Basics - Flower - Perennial

Shop for Perennial Flower Seeds

In late spring or early summer, peonies emerge as dark red shoots that bear little resemblance to the shrubs they will become. The red shoot matures into a 36-inch lush, green bush in just a few weeks. Flowers last only a week or so, but by selecting early, mid-season, and late varieties you can have up to eight weeks of bloom.

Peonies grow best in zones 3-8 because a long winter chilling is required. Gardeners in zones 7-8 will not have success with newer cultivars that have been bred in cold northern climates.

For all-season color, plant peonies with spring flowering bulbs and with iris, daylilies, chrysanthemums, and hardy asters. Peonies make good background plants for low annual flowers.

When purchasing divisions, look for roots with 3-4 eyes. Those with only 1-2 eyes can take up to five years to produce flowers. Check carefully for soft spots or signs of rot.

Where to Plant

Peonies will require little maintenance if they are properly located. They can remain in the same place for years, so choose the location carefully. Follow these guidelines when deciding where to plant.

• Peonies need at least six hours of sun a day.

• They enjoy a good, rich soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5.

• Since strong winds easily rip apart the blossoms, plant peonies in a protected area.

• Provide good drainage. If drainage is a problem, use a raised bed.

• The plant will be almost as wide as it is tall (about three feet), so allow plenty of room.

• Don't plant near the roots of trees or large shrubs. The competition for moisture and nutrients will cause the peony to produce smaller flowers.

Planting and Maintenance

Planting

Planting is best done in the fall, but may also be done in early spring as soon as the soil is workable. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and any organic material that you may have to work into the bottom. Make sure that the reddish buds on top of the roots (called eyes) are about two inches below the soil surface, but don't plant too deeply, or your peonies may not bloom the first year. After filling the hole, water well and keep watering regularly until frost to ensure that the roots will be well established in the spring. Double peonies may require support.

Maintenance

Peonies require little maintenance. Removing spent flowers will help the plant conserve energy.

In the fall you should clip back the foliage to prevent scale. If winter temperatures will drop below -20F, apply mulch over the crown. Gardeners in warmer climates should remove any mulch applied in the spring and summer. This will allow for better chilling.

Failure to Bloom

If your peonies don't bloom, it may be the result of:

• planting too deeply
• immature plants
• excess nitrogen
• inadequate sunlight
• overcrowding
• phosphorous or potassium deficiency
• insect or disease problems
• competition from roots or nearby plants
• late freezes

Cutting and Drying Peonies

To use peonies as cut flowers, cut when the flower is in full color and the bloom is fully open. Scrape or split the stems before placing them in water. The foliage is long-lasting and can be used as a base for arrangements all summer. Cutting more than 1/3 of the flowers produced in a year can reduce flower production the following year.

Flowering Shrubs
Shrubs are among the most versatile of garden plants. They can fill the landscape with color, shape, and texture all year long, with flowers in the spring, lovely foliage in the summer, and berries and bright leaves autumn. They even add shape and texture to the winter garden. Although this bulletin deals mainly with flowering shrubs, the wealth of information can be applied to most any shrub.

A peony's bloom period is brief, but both the flowers and open buds can be dried and wired for later use in bouquets. After cutting, hang the flowers upside down to air dry or use a desiccant such as silica gel. The drying process will take about 5 days. The heavy heads will need to be wired into place as follows:

1. Hold the peony blossom between your fingers and run about 10 inches of thin, flexible wire along the stem, working it through the head just off center. If you push the wire directly into the center, the bloom may fall apart.

2. Ease the wire along, pinching it lightly to support it, holding your thumb on top to feel it coming through.

3. Bend the bloom end of the wire into a small loop once it is through.

4. Gently pull the loop back down into the flower so it sits on the base of the head.

5. A longer wire may be attached to the stem for insertion into arrangements.