Create a boundary along the edge of your driveway using the 2x4 boards. Hammer the stakes into the ground on the outsides of the boards at regular intervals, about twelve inches apart. This will help keep the boards from slipping. You will also need to place boards at the ends of your driveway, in order to keep the concrete from going beyond the perimeter of your driveway. The board on the street end of the concrete should be placed on the street side of the gutter, so that the concrete on that end of the driveway will flow into the gutter, providing a smooth entrance from the street. Because the gutter is dipped, the concrete will flow into it, following the contours of the gutter, but not blocking it completely.
Sweep the driveway carefully to remove any dirt and debris. Ensure that there is no debris in any cracked or damaged areas of the driveway before continuing. Once you begin to pour your overlay, the new concrete will fill in these damaged areas and you won't have to worry about them.
Using a paintbrush, apply a coat of acrylic block fill primer to the driveway. As soon as you put the acrylic block fill primer down, your assistant should use the paint roller to push the primer into the pores of the concrete. Allow the acrylic fill primer to dry completely before continuing. This time can vary among brands.
Combine the self-leveling concrete in small batches per the manufacturer’s directions.
Beginning at the low end of your driveway, start pouring concrete, working toward the other end of the driveway. You will need to pour more concrete in the low areas, so it will fill in more thickly than for the higher areas of your driveway. The concrete will smooth out and level itself as you pour it.
Allow three or four days to pass before walking on the concrete, so that it can dry according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.