- How to Preserve Vegetable Seeds
- How to Plant Fuchsia Seed
- How to Save Heirloom Tomato Seeds
- How to Harvest Coneflower Seeds
- How Long Do I Have to Wait After Using Preen to Plant My Garden Seeds?
- How to Collect Cosmo Seeds From your Garden
- How to Plant Seeds From Fresh Peppers
- How to Harvest Chia Seed
- How to Store Seeds for Planting
- How Soon Can I Plant Seeds After Using Preen?
- Should Plant Seeds Point Up or Down?
Gardeners who grow vegetables from seed know it is the best way to get a large variety of food for harvest. Save seeds from your garden after picking the vegetables, and store them for the next year's planting. Harvesting seeds saves money and preserves heirloom seeds.
Harvest seeds when the weather is sunny and dry, in the afternoon after the dew is gone. If the seeds are encased in the vegetable, pick it according to the best seed harvest for that variety of vegetable. Lettuce seeds itself from flowers at the top of the plant. Place the flower in a paper bag and shake to release the seeds. Do this every two or three days to get a good collection of seeds.
Allow cucumbers and squash to stay on the vine longer than for fresh-vegetable picking, so the seeds ripen. Let the seeds dry on the plant as long as possible. When ready to harvest, remove all fruit and fiber, soaking the seed in a bucket of water to remove bits of vegetable.
Soak tomato seeds and the gel that encloses them in a bucket or jar of water for about a week to break down the coating and allow the seeds to escape. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the water.
Place all seeds on paper towels, and allow them to dry for about a week. You must remove excess moisture to prevent the seeds from sprouting or rotting before next spring.
Store each variety of vegetable seeds in a separate envelope, labeling them with the vegetable type and variety. Place the envelopes in a glass jar and tightly cover. Store the jar in the refrigerator or another cool, dry place.
Screen vermiculite and peat moss and fill your planting container with a 50/50 mixture.
Choose your fuchsia seeds. Start by gently removing the seeds from the fuchsia berries by rubbing the berries gently between your thumb and forefinger. Wash the seeds. Separate out the seeds that are plump and dark, and discard seeds that are flat, light in color or very small.
Place several seeds on top of your growing mixture. Sprinkle a small amount of your growing mixture on top of your seeds, but do not worry about covering them entirely.
Mist the top of your container until the seeds are completely damp.
Place your container under a standard fluorescent light (grow lights are not necessary) with the light approximately 12 inches from the surface of your container. Drape a piece of plastic sheeting over the light to create a makeshift hot-house tent for your seeds. Leave the light on at least 12 hours a day. Keep the temperature around 72 degrees F.
Mist your seeds lightly as necessary to keep the surface of your growing container damp at all times. Your fuchsia seeds should sprout within 7 to 14 days.
Rinse off several ripe heirloom tomatoes and slice them in half with a sharp kitchen knife. Dull knives won't cut through the tomato skin.
Squeeze the seeds from the tomato out into a glass jar. Pour water into the jar until it reaches at least 2 inches above the seeds.
Wait three to four days for white mold to begin growing on your seeds. When this happens, remove the mold, water and any seeds that were floating in the glass jar. You want to save the seeds that are still sitting at the bottom of the jar.
Place the remaining heirloom tomato seeds in a fine mesh strainer. Rinse them under cold, running water.
Set the rinsed seeds on a paper plate so that they are in a single layer. Wait three to four days for the seeds to completely dry.
Transfer your heirloom tomato seeds to an envelope. Label the envelope so that you know what type of seeds are inside. Store in a cool, dry place.
Harvest coneflower seeds in later summer, while the weather is still warm and dry. Select a healthy plant with large blooms and stop watering that plant when the blooms begin to droop and fade.
Use garden shears or scissors to clip a few blooms off the coneflower plant when the bloom is dead. Pull off the petals, leaves and stems, leaving the bloom head, which will look like a large, prickly cone.
Rub the cone between your fingers to remove the seeds. Wear gloves, because the seeds can be sharp. The seeds will be thin, white tubes, and they will be connected to a green floret, which is a tiny bloom.
Put the coneflower seeds in a paper bag and put the bag in a dry, well-ventilated spot. Leave the seeds in the bag until they dry and separate from the green florets, then store the seeds in a sealed container or a zip-top bag until spring.
You can work Preen into the soil when you plant vegetable seeds, but you should not use Preen with flower seeds. Wait until the flower seedlings are two to three inches tall before spreading Preen around them.
Check the cosmo flower head to make sure it has finished blooming. The cosmo flower head will finish blooming after the first frost. The appropriate time to remove the heads and the seeds is when there are no petals surrounding the stem. The seeds will be formed in the middle of the flower head in small pockets and they should look dark brown to black.
Pick the cosmo flower head off of the stem.
Choose a flat surface to remove the seeds from the flower head, such as a table. Cover the table with newspaper.
Open up the pockets in the flower heads to reveal embedded seeds. Pull the seeds out of the flower head. Use your fingers to make sure all of the seeds have dropped out from inside the little pockets.
Empty the seeds into the shoe box and allow them to air dry for 6 weeks. Keep the seeds away from sunlight and lightly shake the seeds weekly to avoid moisture accumulation. Make sure that while drying, the seeds remain separated and that they have a chance to dry on both sides. The seeds will turn darker as they dry.
Proceed to transfer the dried seeds into the plastic bag. You can store the seeds in the bag for up to 6 months.
Plant the seeds in your flowerbed the following spring and await the arrival of the brilliant blossoms once again.
Soak the seeds in water overnight. Discard any seeds that float
Sow three seeds per small moist peat pot, about 1/4 inch deep.
Place the pots in a location with plenty of light and maintain the indoor temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Keep the soil moist.
Remove all but the hardiest seedling in each peat pot, after the seedlings reach about an inch tall.
Set the plants outside after temperatures remain over 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit for about three weeks. Let the plants acclimate to the outdoor temperature for several days, and reduce watering before planting in the garden.
Plant the seedlings in a row, spacing the seedlings 1 to 2 feet apart. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart.
Observe your chia plant as it flowers in late spring or early summer. The bloom will fade, dry and turn yellow. Choose a time to harvest after the bloom has dried, but before the seeds have fallen on their own.
Pull the entire plant out of the ground. As the chia is an annual plant, this is the easiest way to harvest the seeds and you will not be ruining further growth of the plant.
Beat the dried flower blooms against the inside edge of a container and the seeds will fall into the container.
Place 1/2 cup powdered milk in a cloth bag. Alternately, place the milk in the center of a square of cheesecloth. Gather the ends of the cheesecloth together, enclosing the milk inside, then secure the ends with a rubber band.
Place the powdered milk packet into a glass jar. The milk acts as a desiccate, absorbing any excess moisture during seed storage so that the seeds remain viable.
Tape the seed envelopes closed if the original envelope is still available. If not, place the seeds into a new envelope, and write the seed variety and planting instructions on the outside.
Place the seed envelope in the jar. Screw the lid onto the jar tightly, then label the jar with the year the seeds were purchased.
Store the jar in a dark, 40 degree Fahrenheit location. The refrigerator, an unheated garage or other cool place that doesn't drop below freezing is adequate.
Preen is a herbicide that is used to prevent weed seed germination. It will also prevent germination of desired seeds. As the label for Preen advises, the effects last up to three months, so desirable seeds may be planted after that time period.
According to a 1972 Agronomy Journal study, bean seeds emerged from the soil more slowly if they were planted with their hypocotyl -- the stem end -- facing down. The seed must rotate, sometimes as much as 180 degrees, before its stem breaks through to the soil surface. Plants that begin life with this handicap may never reach their full potential.
For small seeds, how they lay in the soil doesn't play a big role. But for large seeds, orientation makes a difference. If you can locate the micropyle of a seed -- the hole in the seed coat through which the root will emerge -- this end should face downward. For pointed seeds, locating the micropyle is easy. For rounded seeds, such as beans and peas, plant them laying flat to minimize the amount they must rotate before the stem emerges.
Other factors affecting seed germination are water, light, oxygen and heat. Absorption of water is the first step in the germination process for all seeds. Light, or the lack of it, is needed by some; others require a particular temperature range. Finally, oxygen is needed by all seeds for germination.