- How to Stop Weeds from Growing in the Cracks in the Driveway
- How to Seal Basement Floor Cracks
- How to Fix a Crack in a Pebble Deck Pool
- How to Fix Gunite Pool Cracks
- How to Take Care of a Gunite Pool
- How to Repair a Heaved Pavement Driveway
- How to Use Sikaflex Concrete Repair
- How to Repair a Concrete Settlement Crack
- How to Repair a Swimming Pool With Epoxy
- How to Repair Driveway Cracks
- How to Repair Gunite Swimming Pools
- How to Repair a Crack in a Concrete Porch
- How to Fill a Small Crack in a Concrete Driveway
This article is designed to help the novice person fix the weeds that keep growing up through the cracks in your driveway. I tried this and it has worked perfectly.
The first step in this process is to locate all the major cracks in your driveway where weeds could grow through. Now we need to get a good weed killer and spray all the cracks down whether or not there are any weeds that you can see. The reason for this is that many times small seedlings are sprouting that you can not even see.
Now we let all the weed killer dry and then we start cleaning out the cracks with the flat screwdriver. Clean the dirt out so it is a clean crack. This is very important so our patch fits perfect.
Next we need to take out the landscaping fabric and cut small strips that are 1 inche wider than the crack that you are working on. Now you wedge the fabric down the crack with the screwdriver. Most of the time if the crack is narrow enough the fabric will stay put in the crack without additional things to hold it down. I had a larger crack in which I had to use landscaping staples to hold it down. Now we should be all set to enjoy a weed free driveway!
Cut the tip of the concrete repair caulk tube at a 45-degree angle with the utility knife.
Insert the tube into the caulking gun and squeeze the trigger until a small amount of caulk reaches the tip of the tube.
Insert the tip of the caulk into the floor cracks and apply a thick bead of caulk along the length of the cracks.
Smooth over the repair caulk on the surface of the concrete with a putty knife. Allow the caulk repairs to dry fully for 24 hours before using the surface.
Chip out any loose, crumbly matter from around the crack. Insert the blade of a chisel behind the loose matter. Tap the back of the chisel handle with a hammer to dislodge the particles.
Enlarge small or hairline cracks for the sufficient insertion of the repair materials, using the chisel. Enlarge cracks to measure at least 1/4-inch deep and 1/4-inch wide.
Scrub the repair area thoroughly with hot water and degreasing dish soap, using a stiff scrub brush. Rinse the area after washing.
Extrude clear epoxy concrete filler into the crack, using a glue injector. Stir sand and/or epoxy pigment into the filler if necessary to match the texture or color of the existing aggregate base.
Embed a layer matching aggregate into the filler. Slowly squeeze plain filler over the tops of the pebbles until they are completely coated. Allow the filler to cure for the time indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions.
Drain the pool completely and let it dry for three days.
Wear safety goggles and gloves. Cut out the crack using a saw with a grinder, which you can rent at a hardware supply store. Enlarge the crack an inch on all sides to be sure to get out all the cracked gunite.
Brush away the dust with a small brush or vacuum.
Squeeze a line of caulk on the inside of the crack, all along the inside. Fill up the crack almost up to the top, but leave about 1/4 inch of room at the top to pour in the plaster.
Let the caulk dry for 24 hours.
Mix together a batch of "pool patch," which is cement with sand and a bonding agent. Stir it together until it is the consistency of peanut butter.
Dampen the surface of the crack with a sponge. Fill in the crack with the pool patch mix using a putty knife. Pack it down as tightly as possible and smooth the surface so that it is even with the rest of the pool wall.
Fill the pool immediately with water.
Check the plaster for stains. If you notice them, the gunite may have copper, iron or other metals on the surface. Apply a sequestering agent to the surface to eradicate the stains. Purchase a sequestering agent at a pooly supply and follow instructions on the packaging.
Brush the sides and floor of the pool every day with a pool brush for the first month. After 30 days, cut back to brushing three times weekly. Remove debris from the surface with a skimmer and keep the floor clean with a vacuum. After 60 days, brush and vacuum the pool once a week.
Test the water pH with a test kit. Gunite pools should maintain a pH of 7.2 to 7.6. The alkalinity should be 80 to 100 parts per million.
Add the appropriate chemicals to keep pH within the correct level. Use sodium bicarbonate and sodium carbonate (or soda ash) to increase pH if it's below 7.2. Muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate will balance water that is above 7.6, lowering the pH. Powder, liquid and tablet concentrations are available at pool supply stores.
Look over your gunite pool often because earth shifts or other underground issues can cause in-ground cement walls to crack. Drain the water until it is below the crack. Use plaster, epoxy putty or caulking compound to repair hairline cracks. Large cracks should be addressed by a professional.
How To Repair Cracks In Heaved Pavement
Break away loose pavement chunks from inside the crack with a screwdriver or chisel.
Clean out the crack with a brush or broom.
Hose off the crack with water, making sure that it is absolutely clear of dust and rocks. This will allow the crack filler to attach itself to the pavement and not to loose rocks.
Apply crack filler and let it dry.
Use a hand brush to sweep any loose concrete crumbs out of the floor-, ceiling- or wall-based concrete crack. Vacuum with a slim utility tool to remove concrete dust particles from the crack.
Spray a water-based degreaser into the crack to break down any oil, dirt or grease marks. Scrub the base, walls and surface of the crack with a small brush to help lift any dirty stains. Rinse the degreaser and dirt out of the crack with water and allow the clean concrete crack to dry.
Apply Sikaflex Concrete Fix sealant into the base of the crack with a caulking gun. Fill the crack, keeping the Sikaflex nozzle in constant contact with the sealant to keep air out of the repair work.
Smooth the surface of the crack repair with a damp cloth or by using your gloved finger. Allow the Sikaflex Concrete Fix to cure for seven days before applying paint or covering the repair with water.
Brush away any loose concrete from the crack with a wire brush. Remove any dirt from the crack with a nonacid concrete cleaner.
Fill small cracks or wall cracks with silicone-modified acrylic cement caulk or urethane-based cement caulk. Pour a ½ to ¾ inch layer of sand into deep cracks. Fill the deep crack a ¼ full with a cement crack sealer. Let the cement sealer dry, then fill a ¼ of the remaining space each time until the crack is filled.
Widen large cracks with a hammer drill by shaping the crack so that the bottom is wider than the top. Check for weak spots and chisel them out. Mix a vinyl concrete patch to the manufacturer's instructions for cracks up to ½ inch deep. Mix sand into the vinyl concrete patch mix for cracks deeper than ½ inch. Fill the crack ¼ full with the mixed vinyl concrete patch using a trowel. Let dry and fill a ¼ of the remaining space each time until flush with the existing concrete.
Let the patch's shine wear off for a few days. Finish the patched concrete's surface by running a wooden float over the area to blend the area with a textured concrete. Blend a patch to a smooth surface concrete by running a metal finishing trowel.
Drain the pool until the water level is below the crack. Although some brands of epoxy putty will harden beneath the water, many do not. In addition, you will have a much clearer view of the crack without having to peer through goggles.
Brush away any chipped or loose pieces of concrete within the crack with a wire-bristled brush.
Squeeze the epoxy putty directly into the crack. If your epoxy putty is in a jar rather than a tube, apply the epoxy with the putty knife. The crack must be completely covered with the epoxy.
Scrape away any excess epoxy putty with the putty knife until the repaired area is flat.
Clean the cracks thoroughly. Remove loose debris with an awl and broom. Rinse small debris from the cracks with the garden hose spray attachment and let them dry completely.
Measure the size of the crack to determine the best way to repair it. Different materials are used depending on the size.
Fill 1/4-inch cracks with a filler for asphalt or concrete that comes in a caulk-like tube. Run a bead of sealant into the crack and smooth it with a putty knife. Repeat if needed.
Fill cracks that are larger than 1/4 inch but smaller than 1/2 inch with a patching compound (for asphalt) or a pre-mixed mortar or sealant from a can (for concrete). After mixing, these fillers can be poured into the crack or scooped onto the crack. Smooth it down with a putty knife, and repeat if needed.
Fill cracks larger than 1/2 inch with pre-mixed concrete or cold-patch asphalt. Pour the concrete into the crack and wait 1 hour before leveling off the excess. Pour cold-patch asphalt into the crack and tamp it down until it is level.
Let all of the materials dry or cure according to manufacturer's instructions.
Seal the driveway with a water sealer using either a roller or sprayer. The driveway cannot be walked on or driven on for several days as the sealer hardens, so put up some sort of barricade.
Sweep away any loose dirt from the cracked area, using a broom.
Widen and deepen the existing crack, using the grinder. Attach the diamond blade to the grinder, place the grinder head in the crack, and then turn it on low. Move it up and down and side to side until the crack is a few inches deep and a few inches wide. The new size will allow the fresh cement mix to bond and harden more easily inside the crack.
Wipe away the gunite dust with a rag, and then soak the area with a hose to prevent the existing gunite from pulling moisture out of the fresh cement.
Combine three parts Portland cement, two parts sand, and one part water in a bucket. Use little water to begin with and add more until the mix is pasty but not dripping.
Line the walls and sides of the crack with the fresh mix, using a small putty knife. Fill the crack completely once it has been lined.
Remove excess cement and make it even with the surface, using the trowel.
Use the hammer and mason's chisel to carefully loosen and knock out any weak or brittle edges of concrete in the existing crack.
Brush away any large pieces of the debris and discard them. Using the Dry Vac, vacuum the crack to further remove debris and sand so that the bonding material will fully adhere to the concrete.
Apply the bonding adhesive to the crack using the brush. Apply an even coat to the entire inside of the crack. This will help the patching material adhere to the concrete and prolong its life span.
Use the putty knife to apply the concrete patch compound directly into the crack on top of the bonding adhesion material. Smooth the patching compound so that it is even and flush with the surface of the concrete porch.
Allow the patching compound to dry overnight and fully cure, before exposing it to any heavy foot traffic.
Clean the area around the crack and inside it as far as possible. Make sure there is no dirt or debris near where you will be working. Go over the driveway with a push broom if a lot of dirt or other contaminants have built up in the area.
Load the caulk gun by first pulling the plunger of the gun back, then inserting the caulk tube with the tube nozzle pointing away from the trigger. Finally, push the plunger back, until it snaps into place around the tube.
Use a utility knife to cut the end of the caulk tube. Make sure the tip will fit the size of the crack.
Fill the crack with caulk, making sure that the caulk is even with the surface of the concrete.
Wipe the area clean with a rag and mineral spirits. Clear excess caulk off the surface of the driveway.
Cover the driveway with a plastic sheet or a tarp and allow the caulk to set for a few hours.