- Instructions for Doughboy Pool Pump
- When to Run the Pump on an Easy Set Pool
- How to Calculate the Electricity Usage of a Pool Pump
- How to Drain a Hayward Pool Pump
- How to Connect a Cord to a Hayward Pump
- How to Set Up a Doughboy Pool Pump
- How Long Should We Run the Pool Pump in the Summer?
- How to Clean a Concrete Pump
- Why Does My Pool Pump Make a Humming Noise?
- Pool Pump Motor Hums But Won't Turn
- How to Stop a Leak on a Pool Pump With a Hairline Crack
- Troubleshooting a Goulds' Submersible Pump
- Hayward Power-Flo Matrix Pump Troubleshooting
- How to Replace Pool Pump Bearings
- How to Soundproof a Pool Pump Room
- How to Use Your House's Heat Pump to Heat Your Pool
- How to Operate a Jandy Pool System
Doughboy is a company that makes products related to all aspects of the pool industry. The Doughboy product line includes the pool itself, liners, filters, pumps, vacuums, ladders and skimmers. Doughboy pool pumps are available in programmable, non-programmable and timer models. A pool pump is part of your pool's filtration system and important for keeping the swimming water clean.
Start up the filtering system according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Prime your pump if it is new and you are not using a Doughboy pool filter. Loosen the pump strainer pot cover and let all the air escape. Tighten the lid when you notice water flowing between the lid and the strainer pot body. Do not overtighten the lid.
Lift the timer cover at the back of the pump to access the timer, if your pump is equipped with one.
Turn the dial to the number that represents the amount of time you want the pump to run each day. Choose 4, 6, 8, 10 or 12 hours.
Begin the pump cycle by plugging in the pump. It will run for the amount of time you selected and then shut off. It will start again each day at the same time and run for the number of hours you chose.
Select the "Cont" or "Off" settings if you want to run the pump in manual mode. Use the "Cont" setting for jobs like vacuuming and extended filtering. The "Off" setting resets your time and cycle that you selected.
Move the timer knob to a different hour selection to set a new time for the pump to run. Unplugging the pump is not necessary.
Unplug the pump, wait 30 seconds and then plug it back in -- or turn it to the "Off" setting and choose a new time if you want to change the time of day the pump starts.
To figure out how long the pump has to run each day to completely filter the pool's water, a simple formula has been devised. First, figure out the number of gallons of water in the pool. Divide that number by the flow rate, or gallons per minute pumped by the filter. The resulting number will be the number of minutes you need to run the pump each day.
Easy Set Pools range in size from 8 feet to 24 feet in length. At of 2010, there are four different pump models. These models range in flow rates from 530 gallons per hour (GPH) to 2,500 GPH. An 8-foot pool with the smallest pump will need to run one to two hours a day to completely filter the water in the pool. A 24-foot pool with the biggest pump will need to run five to seven hours a day.
You will be able to visually determine if the filter is running enough to circulate the pool's water. If the water becomes cloudy, despite having chemicals in it, the pump may not be running enough to circulate the water completely. Try running the pump an extra half-hour a day to clear the water.
Search the instructions or owner's manual for the pool pump to find out the voltage of the motor that powers the pool pump listed in the specifications.
Read the specifications to find out how much current---how many amps, or amperes---the pump uses.
Multiply the amps by the voltage. If the pump uses household current, usually a 110 volt AC (VAC) circuit, at 10 amps, running the pump continuously for one hour requires 1,100 watts of power. Over the course of one hour, that's 1,100 watt-hours, or 1.1 kilowatt-hours (a kilowatt is 1,000 watts).
With a stopwatch, time your pool pump. Record how often it comes on, and how long it stays on each time, over the course of an hour. Total the running time for the hour. If it runs six minutes every hour (0.1 hours), that means it's consuming 1.1 kilowatts of electricity, for 0.1 hours, each hour.
Multiply the power consumption, by the total time of power consumption. The number of kilowatt hours of electricity consumed when the electric pool pump is running equals the electricity times the part of an hour = kilowatt hours consumed per hour. In this case, 1.1 kilowatts x 0.1 hours = 0.11kwh.
Shut off power to the Hayward pump from the breaker box. Unscrew the pump lid and remove the pump basket.
Unscrew the small drain plug located on the base of the pump. Place the drain plug in the empty pump basket and allow the pump to drain.
Unscrew the unions connecting the pump to the pool lines once water stops flowing from the pump. Tilt the pump to one side and allow any remaining water to drain from the pump.
Determine the voltage of the wiring for your pool pump. This can be 115 to 120 volts, depending on the model of pool pump.
Turn off the breaker for the pool pump, located at the circuit panel.
Remove the cover from the pool pump by loosening the screws. This exposes the pump's electrical connectors.
Attach the PVC pipe to the outside of the pump for the electrical wiring. Feed the electrical wire from the box to the pool pump.
Remove 1 1/2 inches of the electrical wire's insulation with the wire strippers. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from the black, white and green colored wires.
Attach the white wire to the terminal screw labeled "L1" by using the screwdriver. Attach the black wire to the terminal screw labeled "L2." Attach the green ground wire to the green "GRD" screw.
Place the cover back on the pool pump and tighten the screws. Bond the pool pump to the pool with the copper wire.
Installing the Pump to the Base
Unplug the pump's power cord. Wear dry shoes and be sure the ground you are standing on is dry.
Screw two cleats to the front side of the pump's base and be sure they fit tightly. Screw the other two cleats in by pre-threading them so that they line up with the holes. You can do this easily by sliding the screws into the holes, adjusting the alignment and then removing the screws from the holes.
Align the pump into the base and slide it in. The two front cleats must fit into the slots that are in the pump housing.
Insert the other two cleats into the back end of the pump housing; make sure they fit into the slots provided. Replace the back screws and tighten them.
Running Your Pool Pump Costs Money.
Running your pool pump constantly uses electricity, which can add up if you choose to run the pump constantly. In addition, the constant hum of the pump can disturb your backyard oasis and quickly grow irritating.
Your Pool Pump Ensures Clear Water.
Your pool's pump system, which filters debris from the water in your pool, is the first line of defense against dirt. Especially during the high-use summer months, you may want to run your pool pump constantly to ensure your water stays clean and clear and ready for swimming.
Most pool pump systems circulate the pool water completely twice in an eight hour period. Experts like those at Orange County Pool & Spa recommend you run the pump "all the time for maximum circulation and debris removal. A minimum of 8 hours a day in summer ... is highly recommended."
Pump out all remaining concrete. After you finished with your pour, point your pump in a safe direction and let the remaining concrete run out. Be patient and keep the pump running until all rattling inside has ceased.
Rinse out and scrub the hopper---the basin where the concrete enters the pump---with a brush. Scrub thoroughly to make sure no setting concrete sticks to the sides of the hopper.
Run water through the pump. Using the water tanks on a mixing truck, a local source or the pumps reserve, run water through the pump to flush it out. Don't stop until the water is running clear.
Clean the joints. Remove the clamps holding the pipes together and clean the individual joints with the scrub brush.
Rinse the entire unit. A concrete pump can splatter concrete quite a distance from where it's pumping. Rinse the entire unit before leaving the job site, even the truck parts not used in the pumping.
Dirt or other debris might be jamming the pump motor impeller. If you cannot turn the impeller by hand -- after disconnecting the pump from its power source -- you will need to find the source of the jam and remove it. A jammed impeller is one of the easier pump fixes.
If the voltage to the pump's motor is too low – often caused by insufficient wiring – the pump will not turn over. If you try to run a 220-volt motor on a 110-volt electric line, the pump will just hum.
The pool pump’s start capacitor – a fairly inexpensive part that acts a bit like a back-up battery – might be malfunctioning. If the capacitor is leaking oil or is dusted with a white residue it has gone bad and will need to be replaced.
The lubricant, or grease, in the pool pump motor can be displaced by water through a leak in the shaft seal, allowing the bearing to grind against one another. This can create a screeching or humming noise.
Shut off the power to the pool pump or disconnect the pump from its power outlet or switch box. Disconnect the pump from the pool plumbing and remove the bolts on the middle of the pump with a socket wrench.
Pull the pump apart and remove any diverters or O-rings that cover the shaft section of the pump. Examine the pump impeller for cracks, warping or debris lodged inside it.
Spray the impeller with water or use a small screwdriver to remove any dirt or debris on the impeller. Debris in the impeller prevents it from turning, causing the motor to hum but not fully operate.
Install a new impeller onto the shaft if the old one has cracks, warping or other obvious damage. A damaged impeller will fail to spin properly and can potentially damage other components of the pump.
Bolt the pump sections back together with the socket wrench and reconnect the pump to the pool plumbing. Restore power to the pump or reconnect it to the power outlet or switch box.
Turn the pump off and allow the water to drain out of the housing. Wait until no more water seeps from the crack.
Sand the surface area around the crack with 600-grit sandpaper to provide a textured surface for proper epoxy adhesion. Sand at the surface at least ½-inch around the circumference of the crack.
Wipe the surface clean with mineral spirits and a clean rag.
Mix your two-part epoxy in a small container and then apply the epoxy over the cracked surface that you sanded. Allow 24 hours drying time before you restore power to the pump
Leave the pump alone to allow it to cool to auto-reset the thermal protector if the pump won’t run. Heavy usage may trip the thermal protector.
Change the fuse or reset the circuit breaker if the pump isn’t functioning at all. Inspect the power supply or generator capacity to ensure your power source is sufficient to handle the load.
Inspect the check valve and adjust it so it’s installed correctly if the pump isn’t delivering liquid properly. The check valve keeps the proper amount of pressure in the system so the pump functions normally.
Pull the pump out of the ground and clean out any debris if it is clogged and no liquid is being pumped. Lower the pump further into the ground if it isn’t completely submerged.
A swimming pool water pump pulls water into a filtration system. Debris is removed from the water through the pump's strainer. After the water passes through the filtration system, it returns to the pool.
Many problems with the Hayward PowerFlo Matrix pump can be solved by unclogging its assembly. Check the strainer and suction lines for obstructions. Verify that the pump's motor shaft has ample room for movement.
The motor's shaft seals become worn over time, causing friction or complete seizing of the shaft. A homeowner can easily replace the seals with Hayward's original spare parts. For a through do-it-yourself overhaul, Hayward recommends cleaning and lubricating the internal pump parts when replacing the seals.
Turn off power to your pool pump by unplugging it from the power source or by turning off the circuit breaker.
Remove the plumbing from the pump. Take off the unions on the suction and discharge side using a wrench. Loosen the pool pump from the fitting holding it to the ground and move it to a comfortable area to work in.
Remove the housing from the pool pump and separate it from the motor. Look at the owner's manual for your pump to see the specifics on how to remove the pool pump housing, since each model is different. Usually you will need to loosen a bolt with a socket wrench and loosen the metal band that holds it in place.
Remove the four bolts that hold the pump together. These are located on the hand bell of the frame. Remove the motor end bells.
Pull out the motor armature to expose the ball bearings. Insert your ball bearing puller to pull out the old ball bearings. Inspect them for damage. Replace the old ball bearings with new ones after greasing them with bearing grease, and reassemble the pump.
Cut several panels of the acoustic foam to the width of the pump room using a box cutter. Although covering each wall in its entirety with the foam will offer best results, several strategically placed segments will work.
Find studs near the edges of the wall using your stud finder. Mark the locations with a pencil.
Mount the foam with your electric drill and 3-inch drywall screws, using your pencil marks as a guide.
Repeat Step 2 for the edges of the ceiling and mount the foam. Use a small ladder if necessary.
Depressurize the heat exchanger system. There typically is a pressure release valve around the compressor.
Separate the tubing at the input and output of the air heat exchanger. Connect a Y-valve to each side of the heat exchanger and then connect the tubing to the valves. The 2 side portion of the Y-valve should be on the heat exchanger side so that when the valves are turned to the alternative route, the refrigerate easily flows through the pool loop.
Connect tubing from each Y-valve and run it out to the pool's circulation system.
Separate the water circulation piping and insert one side of the heat exchanger into the circulation system. This will allow the hot refrigerate to warm the pool water.
Connect the tubing running from the house heat pump system to the pool heat exchanger such that the refrigerate will flow in the opposite direction as the pool water.
Refill the heat pump system with refrigerate.
Set the regular cycle for the pump by turning the large dial clockwise on the time clock.
Turn the small dial on the time clock counterclockwise to override the regular cycle. If the pump is currently on in the regular cycle, this action will turn it off and vice versa.
Set the filter pump switch to "Auto" to allow automatic control of the pump by the time clock.
Turn the filter pump switch to "Off" to turn the pump off. This action will override the regular cycle if the pump is on. When the pump is turned off, the water in the pool will not circulate through the filtration system.
Turn the filter pump switch to "Manual" to turn the pump on. This will override the regular cycle if the pump is off. When the pump is turned on, the water in the pool will circulate through the filtration system, cleaning it of particles and impurities.
Set the thermostat to the desired temperature for the pool.
Turn the filter pump switch to "On" to override the regular cycle and start the filter pump. This has the same effect as setting the filter pump switch to "Manual" at the control center.
Turn the heater switch to "On" to activate the heater. This will heat the water in the pool until it reaches the temperature set on the thermostat.
Turn the auxiliary switches to "On" to activate any auxiliary equipment. This could be any optional equipment that has been connected to the system and can be controlled by an "On/Off" function, such as lights or a waterfall. There are two auxiliary switches. Each can control one auxiliary device.