- How Are Strawberry Seeds Dispersed?
- How to Keep Animals Away From Pumpkins
- Fencing to Keep Unwanted Animals Out of Your Garden
- Keeping Armadillos Out of Your Garden
- How to Trap a Groundhog
- How to Catch Woodchucks
- How Do I Catch an Armadillo?
- How to Trap a Rabbit
- How to Set a Victor Mole Trap
- How to Set One of the Wooden Mouse Traps
- How to Get Rid of Mice in a Garden
- How to Trap a Squirrel
Strawberries are a visually arresting and tasty food source for both animals and people. When the animals consume the fruit and seeds, however, they are often carried far and wide, eventually deposited onto soil to germinate in a later season.
Self Sowing by Decay
Mature strawberries growing either in the wild or in gardens are sometimes left to rot on the soil surface. This can be because the patch is untended or animals have disturbed the plants but only partially eaten the berries. As the red fruit desiccates, the seeds can be released into the soil and germinate in future seasons.
Garden & Commercial Planting
Human endeavors in both commercial and residential strawberry growing operations account for a significant degree to which strawberry seeds are dispersed. While many home gardeners buy their strawberry plants as seedlings to speed seasonal fruit production, others start seeds indoors as the tail end of winter to get a jump on the growing season. Commercial growers also start plants by seed on an industrial scale.
Erect a fence to keep deer away from your pumpkins. The fence should be 8 to 10 feet high if you are depending on height alone to keep deer away. A shorter fence will work if it is solid, since deer usually won't jump a fence if they can't see what is on the other side. You can either make it of solid boards or cover it with black plastic attached to the fence.
Hang bars of deodorant soap from trees and fencing near the pumpkins. These can also be placed in and around the pumpkins to discourage deer, which don't like the smell.
String two layers of fishing line around the garden, one 2 feet off the ground and one 4 feet off the ground. This will spook the deer if they touch it, since they aren't able to see it well, and they will often leave the garden alone.
Install a 1-inch mesh chicken wire fence buried 6 inches into the ground to deter rabbits and other small animals. The fence should be at least 2 feet high. If you have problems with both rabbits and deer, use this fence as the bottom section of a deer fence.
Rake up any loose litter on the ground, especially close to the pumpkins. Small garden pests, particularly voles, use this litter to hide in and will tunnel right up to the pumpkins to eat them. Removing the litter reduces the areas where the voles feel safe and discourages them from coming into the garden.
Prevention and Control
Choosing the right animal fencing for your garden can be challenging. Here are several methods to choose from and what animals they are best used for:Traditional Fencing methods * Post fencing: Most common type of traditional fencing; it is hard to repair and can be expensive. It is not as effective in deterring bigger animals as barbed-wire or electric fencing. Post fencing is meant to be permanent. Tall post fences, at least 8 to 10 feet high, can deter animals such as a deer effectively. Check your local ordinances for fencing codes before installing them. Barbed Wire: Another traditional type of fencing, barbed wire only lasts 7 to 12 years and must be maintain constantly. Barbed wires can cause injury not only to the wild animals but to livestock or domestic animals as well. The barbed wires are effective against wild boars, opossums, porcupines, deer and raccoons. Netting: This type of traditional fencing is very effective with smaller animals such as rabbits, cats, armadillos and squirrels. However, even pets and livestock can be entangled in the mesh and be injured.Electric Fencing Electric String: Is easily breakable, which is why it only can offer minimal physical protection. Electric string can short-circuit easily, so the distribution of electricity will not be even, making it less effective. Electric Cord: Compared to electric strings, electric cord is much stronger and resists up to two tons of pressure.
Unwanted animals can damage a wide variety of plants in the garden or on the farm,from fruits and veggies, to ornamental flowers or trees. They also can be harmful to livestock.
Damage caused by animals to the garden crops and livestock which can be very costly.
Armadillos, recently added in the order Xenarthra to which anteaters and sloth belong, are small mammals known for having a bony shell or armor. Armadillos' average length is about 75 centimeters (30 in.), including the tail. The Giant Armadillo can grow as big as 90 cm (3 ft.), and there are the smaller Pink Fairy Armadillos with an overall length of 12 to 15 cm (4 to 5 in.). Armadillos are native to the Americas, where they can be found in different environments.These animals are not actually going after the crops or plants, but after the white grubs, insects, earthworms, slugs and carrion. The digging that the armadillo does is what annoys a lot of gardeners due to the damage to the planting beds as they look for their food.
Prevention and Control
A standard net fence or electric fences are effective for armadillos. Electric wires set a few inches outside of conventional garden fence will shock armadillos when they come close to investigate.
Wide variety of plants can be damaged when armadillos dig for worms and insects.
Other Methods of Control
Animal traps can be placed close to the planting beds.
Trapping a Groundhog Live
Purchase an animal trap or borrow one from your local Humane Society. Locate an entrance to the groundhog burrow (there can be as many as four to five). The main entrance will typically have a small mound of dirt nearby.
Place the trap near an entrance of the burrow, no more than five to 10 feet away. Place the bait in the trap and set it. Suggested bait includes salad greens, carrots, apples or cabbage.
Use wood to create a walled pathway leading from the burrow entrance to the trap, which will encourage the groundhog to walk directly to the trap when it leaves the burrow.
Check the trap regularly until you catch the groundhog. Call your local Humane Society for information about where to relocate the captured groundhog. Typically, you should move it to a field several miles from your home.
Set live traps, also known as cage traps, out in early spring before new vegetative growth emerges. The woodchucks will be hungry and more likely to enter the traps at this time, and trapping them in early spring before new young are born is critical for controlling woodchuck populations.
Set the traps near the main opening of the burrow, identified by a large mound of soil and rocks. Bait it with carrots, apples or lettuce, and conceal the trap with brush or black cloth.
Check the trap and add fresh bait everyday. Release captured woodchucks at least five miles away from your property.
Watch the armadillo in the evening, if possible, to determine its routes and habits.
Purchase a commercial live trap or construct one from fencing material that will close behind the armadillo. Armadillos resemble large cats in size, so raccoon traps work well.
Place the trap in the armadillo's path. If you don't know the spot, place it along a fence or building so the armadillo can't go around it.
Construct a temporary fence or secure wide boards to stretch from the cage to funnel the armadillo into the trap.
Decide whether or not to bait the trap. Experts suggest baiting does not increase the odds of success, but others believe overripe fruit or earthworms attract the armadillos.
Watch the trap or check it every fifteen minutes to ensure anything caught is not left alone too long.
Release anything that is not an armadillo and reset the trap.
Transport the trap after you catch the armadillo to a location away from your house. If you choose a deserted place near water, the armadillo is more likely to stay where you release it.
How to Trap a Rabbit
Track the paths used by the rabbits to enter your garden area or around your yard where they've been chewing and causing damage to plants. If your garden is fenced in, try to find the entry point the rabbits have been using.
Purchase or make a live rabbit trap. A one-door cage trap is terrific and can usually be found at a feed supply store.
Place the trap at the entry point to your garden or along the trail they've been following around the yard.
Bait the trap with dandelions, leafy greens, carrots or tempting rabbit snacks from a pet supply store.
Set the baited trap in place during active times for rabbits such as dusk and dawn.
Monitor the trap so you can release the rabbit as soon as possible after it has been caught.
Relocate the rabbit to a park or other rural location and release it. Repeat steps 3 through 7 until you notice a significant decline in rabbit population as evidenced by a flourishing garden.
Hold the mole trap upright so the two curved legs face upwards. Hold a setting lever hook facing down and hook over the spring beneath the legs. Hook the second setting lever over the spring from the opposite side.
Grasp a setting lever in each hand and push upwards to bring the two levers together above the legs. Locate the flat metal plate pointed downwards beneath the spring (known as the "trigger pan"). Pull the trigger pan outwards and set the end of the locking bar (the metal bar running perpendicular to the trigger pan) on the trigger pan.
Locate the safety latch hanging downwards off one of the legs. Pull the hook up and hook over the other leg. Unhook the setting legs one at a time and remove from the trap.
Dig a hole as wide as the trap downwards into the ground using a trowel so it intersects with a straight section of mole tunnel. Mound the removed dirt loosely in the tunnel.
Hold the trap by the curved top legs and push gently down into the dirt mound so the trigger pan is parallel to the sides of the tunnel. Unhook the safety latch.
Place the wooden mouse trap flat on a table or countertop.
Add the bait. You can use cheese, or peanut butter as the bait.
Pull the metal lever over to the opposite side and hold it in place.
Slide the locking bar up and over the metal lever and into its place. There is only one slot for the tip of the locking bar to slide into. It is near the square that is holding the bait. Make sure you do not let go of the metal lever until after the locking bar is in place.
Place the wooden mouse trap anywhere you have seen mice. Be careful to carry it to its final destination by only holding on to the bottom and sides of the mouse trap. Otherwise, you may accidentally set it off.
Remove all surface debris, such as piles of lumber or fallen leaves, and prune back overgrown vegetation. These areas create sanctuaries for mice and other pests.
Mow the grass and maintain a wide-open space around your vegetable garden. Mice are less prone to traverse long distances in the open.
Administer a granular or liquid rodent repellent. These are usually made with the scent of bobcat urine or that of similar large predators. This tricks mice and rats into thinking a dangerous predator is in the area and effectively scares them away. Granular products are best for sprinkling on pathways and your garden's edge, while sprays are ideal for treating specific fruits and vegetables being attacked by mice.
Trap the mice as a last resort if methods of deterrence are not sufficiently successful. Use a lethal snap trap or a live trap if you prefer to humanely relocate the animals. Bait the trap with a dab of peanut butter or something from your garden if the mice show a preference for a specific vegetable or fruit in your garden.
Observe where the squirrels hang out. If you feed the birds then you know the squirrel is visiting the bird feeder on a regular basis, probably more often than the birds. This is his source of food and it's where you should set the trap.
Purchase a live animal trap for squirrels, rabbits or other small critters. A one-door squirrel trap is terrific and can usually be found at a feed supply store.
Place the trap by your bird feeder or where you've been observing the squirrel loitering most in your yard. Anchor it in place by putting a heavy rock or bricks on top of it.
Bait the trap with food but do not set the trap just yet. You want to draw the squirrel to the trap and make him curious and trusting of the trap as he tries getting the food inside for a day or two.
Remove the bird feeder or any other food sources in your yard if possible and set the trap according to the directions that came with it.
Monitor the trap. More than likely you'll have a live squirrel trapped very quickly after it's been set.
Relocate the squirrel to a park or rural location and release it.
Repeat steps 3 through 7 until you notice a decline in the squirrel population in your yard.