- How to Apply Mortar Over a Pond Liner
- How to Use Mortar Between Pavers
- How to Repair Bricks Around a Swimming Pool
- How to Mortar Fieldstone
- How to Make Thin Strong Concrete
- How to Mix Strong Mortar
- How to Apply Mortar
- How to Repair the Brick Steps on a Front Porch
- Can Mortar Be Used to Cover Brick?
- How to Mix Type S Mortar Mix
- How to Mix Brick Mortar
- What Is Tuck Pointing?
- How to Cure a Concrete Block & Mortar
- How to Rebrick a Brick Facade House
- How to Repair Chimney Crown Mortar
- How to Patch Mortar Cracks on Brick
A pond liner is a flexible plastic liner laid over the interior of a pond to prevent the water from leaking into the ground and to prevent the pond from becoming muddy. You can add mortar over a pond liner to add strength and you can add rocks and decorative elements to it. Adding the mortar is a simple process, but it is important to keep the mortar wet during the curing process to prevent cracking. Always wear a dust mask, eye protection and work gloves when working with mortar.
Mix the mortar in a ration of three parts sand and one part plastic cement. Add in 1 ½ parts of concrete reinforcement to add stability to the mix. Mix the ingredients in a large container. Add in enough water to create a mud-like paste.
Spread the mortar over the liner with the flat trowel. Spread the cement to a thickness of about 1 inch.
Press large rocks into the mortar to create borders and shelves for plants or fish. Press the rocks around the edges of the mortar to hold them in place. Spread a thin layer of mortar between the rocks for additional bonding and to create a water-tight seal between the rocks.
Water the surface of the mortar every hour. The cement must stay damp throughout the entire curing process or else it will crack.
Seal the mortar with a cement sealer. Apply the sealer with a paintbrush. Allow the sealer to dry for 24 hours.
Fill the pond with water as soon as the concrete sealer dries. This is the best way to maintain the strength of the cement inside the pond.
Make sure the concrete subsurface is clean; wet it down before applying the mortar.
Combine the sand, cement and lime in a large tub or cement mixer and mix thoroughly.
Add water slowly until the mortar mixture is soft and easy to work with but not too wet. To test, drag the corner of a trowel through the mix to make a 3-inch channel; if the sides sag, but only slightly, the consistency is right.
Using the trowel, put down a layer of mortar on the concrete subsurface to a depth of about 1 to 1 1/4 inch.
Lay the bricks into the underbed mortar, pressing just slightly to seat the bricks in the mortar.
Remove any mortar from brick surfaces and surrounding surfaces before it sets.
Cover the pavers with waterproof insulating blankets. Keep the area covered for at least 48 hours to allow the mortar to fully cure.
Chisel away the damaged mortar on either side of the brick and underneath, using a flat-nosed chisel and hammer.
Remove the brick from the mortar bed. Dispose of it if you are replacing it; set it aside if you are simply redoing the mortar.
Clean out the gap left behind by the missing brick by chipping away at rough edges with a chisel and hammer. Additionally, chip off any residual mortar from the brick if you plan on using it again.
Mix mortar mix and water together in a mixing tub according to package instructions.
Moisten the bricks alongside the pool to keep them from sucking moisture out of your new mortar.
Apply a scoop of mortar to the gap on the siding to create a mortar bed for your new brick, using a brick trowel. Press the brick into the mortar firmly.
Scoop mortar with a trowel to deposit down into the space between bricks. Add enough until the mortar is level with the top of the bricks, and smooth down with a rubber float held at a 45-degree angle.
Remove any mortar on the surface of the bricks, using a scrub brush dampened with water and being careful not to remove any mortar from the grout lines.
Buy dry mortar mix that is designed for stone or masonry work.
Mix the mortar in a bucket with water. Different proportions apply to whatever mix you use, so check the directions on the package. The mortar's consistency should be comparable to brownie batter. Make it thick enough to remain on the trowel without drips. Ensure you wear goggles, gloves and a dust mask.
Trowel one layer of mortar onto the surface of where the stone will be stationed. Trowel more mortar between stones on either side.
Trowel one layer of mortar underneath the stone that you lay next. This process is called stone buttering.
Put the stone onto the mortar bed on top of the rock and push it gently into place. There should be enough mortar for it to ooze from the sides.
Remove the excess mortar from the links and smooth out the joints with the trowel.
Pour cold tap water and the thinset mortar mix into the bucket in accordance with the ratio described on the packaging instructions.
Thoroughly stir the mixture with a hand trowel until the mortar and water are fully integrated. The texture should mimic that of peanut butter. If the mixture is too thick, add a small amount of cold tap water and stir it in until it achieves the proper consistency.
Allow the thinset mortar to settle in the bucket for approximately 20 minutes, then stir once with the hand trowel and apply it as desired to complete your project.
Add 2 parts Portland cement to the mixing container. This can be any measurement that you want, whether it is 1 cup or 1 bucketful, as long as the measurement stays the same throughout the mixture.
Pour 1 part lime into the Portland cement, and then mix it together until the mortar has a uniformly light gray color.
Add 9 parts sand to the mixing container and combine the mixture thoroughly.
Add water to the container, mixing with the garden hoe until the mortar has reached the consistency of peanut butter. When you have reached this level, the mortar is ready to be used.
Shovel a scoop of mortar from the wheel barrow onto a piece of scrap wood or mortar board.
Slice into the end of the mortar with a pointed trowel. Do this as you would with butter, lifting the mortar level to the ground. At this point you should only have a trowel sized amount of mortar.
Place the long end of the trowel onto the area you wish to apply mortar.
Turn the trowel 180 degrees and snap the mortar over the spot.
Move the trowel along the center to even the mortar along the area.
Tap the unit (brick, rocks or whatever you are connecting) with the end of the trowel.
Verify that the unit is level and aligned properly.
Cut off the excess mortar with the edge of the trowel.
Layer the mortar on the bricks or rocks themselves to a 1/2-inch or more thickness than desired before sticking them to their adjoining unit. The excess will come out when put into place.
Press down on all of the edges.
Wipe the unit's surface to keep it from becoming discolored from the mortar.
Allow the mortar to set until it becomes gray.
Scrape off any excess mortar with the trowel.
Tool the joints if necessary.
Gather all of your tools. Make sure you have everything so you do not have to stop in the middle of the job to get some needed item. Then put on your safety glasses so that dust or chunks of mortar do not fly into your eyes. You do not need to make the mortar at this time.
Chisel out the loose brick. Use the wire brush to clean off mortar from the brick, if you are planning to re-use it. Clean out the empty space with the wire brush. Spray the area with your hose for the last bits, if needed.
Mix up your mortar in the bucket per the instructions on the bag. Use your trowel to put mortar on all but the face side of the brick. Make the layer about 1/2-inch thick and place it in the empty slot. If any mortar lands on the brick, wipe it off immediately.
Let the mortar cure for 72 hours. Avoid using the steps during this time. Keep the mortar moist by spraying it with water every few hours. Cover it with burlap or plastic sheeting to prevent the sun from drying out the mortar.
Mortar is mixture of elements that when blended form an adhesive paste that acts as a binder of brick, stone or tile. Mortar has been used in combination with red brick since both were invented by the Romans. A mix of mortar, sand and water is known as stucco and is commonly used as a coating for brick.
Brick structures are strong in themselves, but can be made stronger with the application of a layer of mortar or stucco to the exterior. In addition to increasing strength, stucco helps to prolong the lifespan of brick structures by insulating them from the elements and forming a sort of exoskeleton similar to those in some high-rise, steel-frame buildings.
Stucco is often colored either by adding a dye or tint to the mortar mix when wet, or by applying paint to the stucco layer once dry. Stucco is not as strong as the brick it covers and may require maintenance including relatively frequent patching and repainting.
Add four full bags of Portland cement into a large mixing container followed by half of the last bag. This should leave you with about 47 pounds of cement remaining in the last bag.
Pour out hydrated lime into the industrial scales until you have 90 pounds of lime. It will require four and four-fifths bags of lime to get that much weight. Add the weighed lime to the Portland cement in the container.
Measure out .81 tons of sand using the scales then add the sand to the cement and lime. Mix the three ingredients together thoroughly from the bottom up to ensure even distribution throughout the container.
Remove 80 pounds of Type S mix from your mixing container and put it into the mixing machine. Pour one and a half gallons of water into the mixture and allow the mixing machine to run for three to five minutes. Prepare as many batches as you need allowing one and a half gallons of water for every 80 pounds of Type S mix.
Place one shovel full of Portland cement in a wheelbarrow with four shovels full of concrete sand. Mix the dry ingredients together with a garden hoe. The actual ratio of this mix is one part Portland to four parts sand. Add 1/2 shovel full of masonry lime to make the mortar easier to handle and help it stick to the bricks better.
Make a rounded crater in the center of the dry mix. Fill a large coffee can 1/3 full with water (approximately one quart) and pour it into the depression.
Mix the water and the dry mix with a garden hoe to form a paste-like consistency. Water amounts will vary slightly due to the moisture content of the sand. Add more water a little at time until all of the dry ingredients are mixed.
Dip some of the finished mortar out with a hand trowel. Turn the trowel upside down. If the mortar clings to the metal trowel blade, the mixture is just right. Add a 1/2 shovel full of Portland and one shovel full of sand to thicken mortar that may be too soupy.
Replace Portland cement with masonry cement if you do not want to add extra masonry lime to the final mix. Lime is already included in the masonry cement mixture. Use one shovel full of masonry cement to three shovels full of sand.
When to Tuck Point
Tuck pointing becomes necessary when mortar develops cracks and holes. These can come from various causes, including the burrowing of bees and the entrance of water into hairline cracks, which during the winter can freeze and expand, widening the holes.
Why Tuck Point
According to the Masonry Advisory Council, good-quality brick can last between 25 and 100 years, far longer than much mortar. To maintain a waterproof seal, occasional maintenance of the mortar becomes necessary over the life of the structure.
What to Tuck Point
Because tuck pointing is labor intensive and original mortar is preferred to replacement mortar, the council advises tuck pointing only when necessary. This includes when mortar is crumbling, when erosion exceeds 6 mm, when hairline cracks appear and when cracks form between the brick and mortar.
How to Tuck Point
Tuck pointing is done by removing old mortar to uniform depth and replacing it with new mortar of a similar consistency
According to CRX, Inc., good tuck pointing offers a waterproof seal, an aesthetic match to the rest of the wall and an extension of the life of the building.
Pour the concrete, and apply the mortar on a day without strong winds, if outdoors. The temperature of the air and concrete should be above 40 degrees Fahrenheit and below 80 degrees Fahrenheit for at least a week after pouring. Higher temperatures call for a quicker application of the curing compound to prevent water loss. Lower temperatures cause the water to freeze and expand, creating cracks in the new concrete.
Apply a curing compound to the concrete and mortar with a hand sprayer immediately after the surface water disappears. This seals the water in and allows the crystals to grow. Apply a thick coat, leaving no area of the concrete exposed to the air. Any voids allow water to evaporate.
Apply a breathable sealant to the concrete after the curing compound is dry, especially if you live in areas prone to freezing temperatures. When purchasing, make sure the label indicates it's a breathable sealant. This fills in the spaces in the concrete, preventing water from filling these spaces, freezing and cracking the concrete. Apply the sealant with a paint roller.
Wear ear and eye protection and a dust mask to protect yourself while working with power tools. Use a chisel to chip away any pieces of the façade that are loose or crumbling. Chip away loose or crumbling mortar as well. Use an angle grinder with a masonry blade to cut out stubborn bricks that are damaged but hard to remove. Use the chisel to remove the bricks after cutting them out.
Dust the area with a brush to remove dust particles. Dampen the surface of the façade with a sponge to accept the new mortar.
Mix up the mortar to the consistency of thick mud. Apply the mortar to the areas where the bricks are missing with a putty knife. Pack the mortar into the façade joints.
Press new facade bricks on top of the mortar to rebuild the wall. Allow the mortar to cure for twelve hours.
Dampen the mortar again and add a second layer of mortar between the joints of the bricks. Allow the mortar to cure for four days, dampening the mortar with a sponge twice a day to prevent cracking.
Access the chimney and chip away the old mortar crown using a hammer and cold chisel, then clear the chimney’s top surface of dust and debris with a stiff-bristled broom.
Mix the mortar mix in a wheelbarrow, using a hoe or shovel, following the manufacturer’s specifications. The mortar should be slightly stiff, or “dry,” and about the consistency of peanut butter.
Transport the mixed mortar to the roof using a 5-gallon plastic bucket, available at most home improvement centers, and position the bucket of mortar on the roof behind the chimney for easy access during application.
Spread mortar over chimney top surface using a trowel, sloped away from the clay chimney pipes to the outer edges. Maintain a minimum slope of 2 to 3 inches per linear foot, keeping the surface smooth with the trowel.
Allow the new mortar crown to set for a minimum of 24 hours before proceeding.
Apply a coat of elastomeric concrete sealer to the surface of the mortar crown using a paint brush, making certain the coating laps onto the clay chimney pipes at the top and onto the masonry sides of the chimney structure. Allow the sealer coat to dry following the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Chisel out any cracked mortar lines with a masonry chisel by tapping the end lightly with a mallet. Remove the mortar until it feels solid and strong along any cracked mortar joints.
Brush the chiseled-out mortar joints with a wire brush to remove any remaining loose debris.
Mix the mortar with water in a trough as directed on the mortar package, using a trowel. Each mix will vary on the amount of water added.
Fill a mortar bag with mortar. A mortar bag is similar to an icing bag.
Guide the tip of the mortar bag along the mortar joints in need of patching and squeeze the bag as you move the tip along the joint. Stop when the joint is full.
Finish patching the joint by packing the mortar joints firmly using the tip of a pointing trowel and dragging it along the length of the joint. The patched repairs will cure in approximately 30 days.