- Tips for Edging a Gravel Driveway
- How to Install Wooden Landscape Edging
- How to Edge Landscapes for Drainage
- How to Install Metal Edging
- Garden Edging Ideas
- How to Keep Mulch Separate From Stone in Landscaping
- How to Install Metal Landscape Edging
- How to Finish Edges on Patio Pavers
- How to Mow Over the Lawn Edging
- How to Use Cobblestone Edging
Versatile and inexpensive, gravel driveways offer an affordable, durable option for any homeowner. Problems are few and far between with gravel driveways, one of the most common being grass or other plant life encroaching on the edges of the driveway. Whether you prefer a simple, utilitarian method, or a more ornate method, edging a driveway is an easy way to keep your gravel in line and the grass out of your way.
Determine the exact lines of the driveway by measuring the width. Place markers on either side of the driveway in 3-foot increments. The marking can also be done with spray paint, string and even garden hoses. This will help you keep the driveway symmetrical. Rake or shovel any stray gravel back into the driveway, opening up the space you will use for your edging. Gather your tools and supplies, such as shovels, edging materials and gloves.
Types of Edging
Asses what type of edging will suit your project. Simple metal edging will keep your driveway intact, but offers no decorative appeal. Other types of edging serve a decorative purpose, but may be impractical for your needs. Research types of edging at a hardware store. Measure the space surrounding your driveway. Take stock of how the driveway is used. Factor severe weather into your shopping equation. This will save you time and effort after installation.
Edging the Driveway
Know your tools. One handy tool often overlooked is the flat shovel. It will help create a clean, straight line. Work the driveway in sections. Step back periodically to assess your work and make sure you are edging tightly to the driveway. Once the edging is in place, consider applying an herbicide. This will keep the edging clean, which will make it easier to tell if the edging is shifting or requires any adjustment.
Dig a narrow trench along the length of your garden bed, using your shovel. It should be 1/2 inch to 1 inch shallower than the width of your wooden boards.
Set the wooden landscape edging boards in the trench. Position them as you desire.
Drive in 1-foot-long stakes into the ground behind the wooden landscape edging boards at a spacing of every 5 feet.
Nail the wooden landscape edging boards into the stakes.
Fill the trench back in. If successfully installed, the wooden landscape edging should be 1/2 inch to 1 inch above ground level.
Determine which areas have drainage issues and identify the source of the problem. Is the soil line of your plant bed at least 4 to 6 inches above the rest of the ground? If the plant bed is based near the bottom of a slope, you may need to extend your edging beyond the plant bed to direct water runoff away from the plants.
Measure the perimeter of a landscaped area. The larger the area, the wider the edging should be to accommodate drainage needs.
Choose a material for your landscape edging that fits the colors and style of the rest of your landscape. Bricks, stones and landscape timbers are a few types of edging materials to choose from.
Dig a 12-inch deep trench along the perimeter of the plant bed. The trench should be wide enough to accommodate your edging material -- plus an additional 6 to 12 inches, depending on the extent of the drainage problem. Spread a 6-inch layer of sand or pea gravel evenly over the trench. This bottom layer will help absorb excess water and provide a stable foundation for the edging.
Press large, flat landscaping stones along the trench so the stones are partially underground. Wedge smaller rocks in the gaps between the large stones. Continue to work your way around the perimeter of the plant bed.
Lay a second layer of stones in the same manner, overlapping two stones beneath with the top stone for a more stable, layered look.
Fill in the rest of the trench with pea gravel, loose stones or other porous materials. Hide the gravel with soil or mulch if you prefer.
Remove sod and from your landscaping bed or other project using a sod cutter.
Dig a trench around the edge of your landscaping bed that is at least ½ inch deep. Slope your bed down to the bottom of the trench gradually. To cut the edge of a trench in a neat line, use a garden spade. Remove the soil with a scoop shovel.
Assemble the edging by sliding the ends of the metal strips together so they overlap by 2 inches.
Cut the end strips of the metal edging so they are the correct size for your bed, using tin snips.
Press the metal edging up against the outer wall of the trench. The edging should be positioned ½ inch above the soil line. Slip the metal stakes through the stake guides in the metal edging. Stakes should be positioned every 3 to 4 feet. Hammer the stakes into the ground.
Backfill behind the edging in the trench with soil and mulch. Tamp the surface smooth.
Place metal edging in the location and press the stakes in the ground part way. The edging sometimes comes in rolls and it's best to have a friend help. If you are working alone, set aside one section of the edging and then unroll another length.
Tap the stakes into the ground with a rubber mallet. The edging will stay on top of the ground unless you dig a small trench and install it below ground level. The stakes will sink in several inches to hold it in place.
Fill the area on either side up to the top of the edging with mulch and stones.
Define the area where edging is to be installed. A water hose can be used to mark curved beds or boards can mark beds with straight lines. Carefully measure the length to determine how much edging is needed. Most metal landscape edging is sold in 10-foot lengths.
Purchase the metal landscape edging and stakes. Be aware that steel edging, if it isn't galvanized, will rust. This may be a poor choice for wet climates. Aluminum edging comes in various colors and is also easier to bend around curves.
Use a shovel to cut a trench along the area you previously marked. The trench should be 5 or 6 inches deep.
Place the upright edging in the trench, carefully bending it to follow curves if necessary. The stake pockets should be on the inside of the edging, opposite the lawn. If the edging is too long, cut it to length with a hacksaw. Join edging pieces by overlapping stake pockets and inserting a stake.
Place the stakes in the stake pockets and drive them into the ground with a heavy hammer until they are even with the edging top. If necessary, pack any loose soil into the edging trench.
Line the outer perimeter of your patio with metal-edge restraints. If the patio is curved, use plastic or another flexible edging material.
Hold the edging against the outer side of the patio, starting in a corner.
Position a 12-inch nail spike in the pre-cut hole in the edging. Sink the spike in the ground with a rubber mallet at a slight sideways angle.
Continue to press the edging against the pavers and secure it in the ground every 2 feet with a spike through the holes, until you finish the first side. Use tin snips to cut the edging at the end of the first side.
Position the edging against the next corner and repeat the installation process until all exposed sides of the patio have edge restraints.
Cover the metal edging with soil or mulch to conceal it.
Place the back wheel of the mower nearest the edging on top of brick, wood or metal edging. Mow along the edge, taking care not to get too close to the flower bed.
Mow Victorian edging by placing the mower wheels at the very edge of the trench or 1 to 2 inches into the trench. Mow along the edging, following the curves in the trench. Don't allow your wheels to go any deeper into the trench or you'll scalp your lawn.
Trim any remaining grass with a hand-held or gas-powered edger.
Choose a landscaping element in your yard or garden to edge with cobblestone. Cobblestone edging works well for loose-fill items like gardens and pathways that contain gravel, as the cobblestone serves as a barrier to prevent the gravel, soil or mulch from spreading under traffic or erosion. However, you can also use cobblestone edging against solid stone walkways, driveways and patios to enhance the décor of your outdoor spaces.
Measure the width of your cobblestone pieces and use this width to create a similar-sized trench along the edges of the landscaping element. Dig only deep enough to remove the sod layer from this area; use a small garden spade to simplify this step.
Apply herbicide to the ground inside the excavated area, then unroll and cut the plastic sheeting to fit into the trench. This prevents grass and various other plants from growing between the cobblestone edging pieces.
Install the cobblestone pieces into the trenches. Place the cobblestones end-to-end, leaving no gaps between any stones.
Place more mulch, gravel or other loose-fill items into flower beds, gardens and walkways. Leave the level of loose-fill approximately 1 inch below the top of the cobblestone edging.