- How to Winterize Dahlias
- How to Plant Gladiolus Bulbs in Florida
- How to Rehydrate a Dried Flower Bulb
- When to Plant Gladiolus
- How to Replace a Homelite Primer Bulb
- How to Tell If a Tulip Bulb Is Still Good
- Which Way Do You Plant Bulbs?
- Spotting a Bad Flower Bulb
- How to Replace a Tecumseh Primer Bulb
- How to Identify Bulb Plants
The dahlia flower is a needy but beautiful blooming plant. These delicate plants cannot survive even a single frost. It is vital that they be winterized before the first frost or dip in temperatures. To avoid this procedure, many dahlia owners in colder climates choose to plant in pots so they can be easily moved indoors during cold temperatures.
Winterize before the first frost in the region. Cut the dahlia using pruning shears at the base. Dahlias respond well to pruning. Check to be certain that all upper parts of the plant have been removed.
Dig the bulb from the ground using either a hand shovel or a spade shovel. Remove the entire bulb without scraping the bulb sides. Such damage can cause an entrance spot for disease. Brush the extra soil from the flower bulb.
Wash the dahlia bulb in water to remove all dirt debris. Dirt and soil left on the bulb will invite disease into the bulb during storage. Dry the bulb completely with paper towels or an ordinary kitchen towel.
Place the bulb in a dark and dry location. Usually a basement works best to accomplish the colder temperature desirable for bulb storage. Just a few degrees above freezing is ideal for optimal hibernation.
Replant the bulb in the spring. Water generously and wait for your blooms to grow.
Prepare the bed for planting by rototilling or plowing the soil with a shovel or spade. Thoroughly loosen the top 12 inches of soil.
Add mulch or other organic material to the soil, mixing it well with the existing soil.
Dig a hole 4 to 6 inches deep.
Place gladiolus bulb in hole.
Firmly pack down soil around the bulb so no air bubbles are left.
Dig another hole at least 4 inches away from the first.
Repeat steps 4 to 6 with remaining bulbs.
Thoroughly water all the newly planted bulbs immediately after planting so they can begin to establish a root system.
Inspect your flower bulb for roots that look dead or scraggly. Use your scissors to trim the roots back.
Gently remove foliage that is loose from the outer part of your bulb.
Fill a small glass or jar with warm water at approximately 100 degrees F. Make sure your glass container is just large enough for your bulb's roots without getting the bulb wet.
Place the roots of your bulb into the water to soak for two hours. Don't let the bulb itself get wet.
Plant gladiolus bulbs every 2 weeks from mid-May to mid-June for a cascading effect of blooms. Plant with the point of the bulb pointing upward, and at a depth that is four times the width of the bulb.
Locate the primer bulb next to the throttle stop lever.
Unscrew the two screws on the metal plate that hold the bulb in place.
Remove the broken bulb and replace with the new bulb. Replace the metal plate and screw in the two screws.
Squeeze the bulb until it fills with fuel.
Weigh the tulip bulb in your hand. The bulb should feel somewhat heavy for its size. If it feels hollow, it may be bad.
Examine the color. The bulb should have even color all over. Blotchy or uneven coloring is a sign of a bad bulb.
Check the tunic, the thin papery covering, to make sure it is completely intact. A damaged tunic is not able to hold in moisture necessary for the bulb.
Check the bulb for cracks, scratches or other similar damage. This type of damage drastically increases the risk of mold or fungus growth within the bulb. A good bulb should have no damage at all.
Find the shoot end of the bulb that features a pointed, nub-like protrusion. The shoot or nose of the bulb lies opposite the rounded end of the bulb called the basal plate. Place the basal plate at the bottom of the planting hole to accommodate future root formation. Plant the nose upward allows the flower and leaf buds easy access to the soil surface.
Locate the retainer ring that secures the primer bulb to the Tecumseh engine carburetor. The retainer has six tabs that secure the ring into the orifice.
Stick a small flat-head screwdriver in the small pace between the retainer ring tabs and the side of the orifice. Gently pry the ring up with the screwdriver. Pull the screwdriver out and insert into another space in the tabs. Continue prying the retainer ring until it is free from the orifice.
Pull the primer bulb and retainer ring away from the engine. Insert the new primer bulb into the orifice. The lip of the bulb sites on the inside edge of the orifice.
Slide the new retainer ring over the bulb. Place the open end of a 5/8-inch deep well socket over the top of the retainer ring. Gently tap the socket with a hammer to seat the retainer ring inside the orifice.
The term "bulb" generally applies to the underground organ of a plant that stores energy and allows the plant to survive during its dormancy (usually during the winter months). Planting bulbs in the fall for spring blooms is extremely popular among gardeners. There are also bulbs which can be planted in the spring for summer and fall blooms. However, not all flowers grow from bulbs; some, such as dahlias, grow from tubers, which are basically swollen underground parts of roots or stems. There are also rhizomes, including iris, which grow horizontally underground or just beneath the surface. Then there are corms, which are often confused with bulbs. A corm is simply a compressed stem or the base of a stem which grows underground. (Gladioli grow from corms.) Finally, there are true bulbs. Unfortunately, the only way to absolutely discern if you have a bulb plant in your garden is to dig it up and look at it. Follow the steps below to determine whether or not the plant in your garden is growing from a true bulb.