- How to Calculate Driveway Sealer
- How to Fix a Sinkhole in the Driveway
- How to Repair a Dirt Driveway
- How to Apply Concrete Topping Over an Old Concrete Driveway
- How to Apply Concrete Driveway Sealer
- How to Care for a New Cement Driveway
- How to Remove an Old Blacktop Driveway
- How to Make an Old Concrete Driveway Look Good
- How to Bore Under a Drive
- How to Patch Large Cracks & Areas of an Ashphalt Driveway
- How Wide Should I Pave My Driveway?
Driveway sealer renews the dark color of an asphalt driveway, smooths the surface and covers tiny cracks or old patches. You can spread it with a brush or spray it on. It usually comes in 1-gallon or 5-gallon containers and the amount you need depends on the size of your driveway, as well as the texture of the surface. For instance, a rough surface needs as much as 65 percent more sealer than smooth driveway with the same square footage, according to CSGNetwork's driveway sealer calculator.
Measure the length of your straight driveway a tape measure or measuring wheel. Round the measurement to the nearest foot.
Measure the width of your straight driveway. Round the measurement to the nearest foot.
Multiply the length of your straight driveway times its width to determine the square footage.
Divide the result by 80 for an average driveway. The result is the estimated number of gallons of driveway sealer you'll need.
Mark three drill holes with chalk in a triangle over the sunken area. Each hole should be at least 12 inches in from the edge of the driveway and evenly spaced 3 to 8 feet apart, depending on the size of the sunken area and the thickness of the driveway slab.
Attach a 1 1/2 inch bit to a core drill and drill the three holes through the slab.
Thread a hose into the lowest hole with a 1 1/2 inch nozzle. Screw the other end to a slabjacking pump.
Fill slabjacking grout into the pump with a scooper. This mix will contain sand, cement and water and special additives so the material won’t shrink when temperatures drop.
Turn the machine to ‘On’ and pump grout until the cavity beneath is filled. Move the hose to the next hole. Repeat this process until the cavity beneath each hole is filled.
Return the hose to the first hole and continue pumping grout until the pavement rises about 1 inch. Now that the cavity is filled, the pump pressurizes the grout in order to raise concrete hydraulically.
Repeat this process with each hole until the sunken area is level with the rest of the driveway. Wipe off grout from the hole with a moist cloth.
Pack stiff mortar into the holes with a putty knife, tamping it down as you go. Cut the top of the patch so its level with the driveway.
Block off the driveway for three days to allow the grout to harden completely before vehicles drive over it.
Rake excess stones or debris from the rut or pothole. Use a shovel to further define the rut or pothole, firming and straightening any edges.
Fill the rut or pothole using dirt or soil mixed with gravel. Press down and compact as you fill, using the back of the shovel or a tamper tool. Fill it to a few inches above the pothole or rut.
Water the area, continuing to compact it as you do so. This step may require the addition of more dirt-mixed gravel. As you feel the spot firming, walk over it several times.
Rake the spot, blending in the new mixture of dirt and gravel with the existing soil and stone of the natural driveway.
Seal the rut or pothole by driving over it repeatedly with your car or truck. This last compacting should do the trick.
Scrape off all the loose concrete on your driveway using a spade.
Dig out a small trench about half a foot wide on each margin on your driveway.
Place some two-by-four wooden blocks around the margin of the driveway and hold them down by driving some stakes.
Put a paint roller in a bucket of bonding adhesive and roll it around the old surface of your driveway.
Pour a thick enough layer of concrete to even out the surface and cover all the cracks and crevices. Pat down the concrete using a shovel.
Spread your concrete surface around with a wood float and cover the new concrete with cellophane to protect it while it cures.
Make sure that your concrete driveway is completely cured. Freshly poured concrete needs to be cured for at least 1 month before applying any sealer.
Clean off all of the debris from the driveway including loose stones and mud.
Pressure wash your driveway and try to remove all oil/grease stains.
Wait a day to make sure that the driveway is completely dry. If it rains during this period, you will have to wait another day.
Use a long handle roller to spread the concrete driveway sealer onto your driveway. Apply the sealer in patches instead of long strips. Try to make the application as even as possible but make sure that complete driveway is covered.
Make sure you wipe off any sealer that accidentally gets onto your home or garage with a wet sponge.
Let the sealer dry for at least 24 hours to penetrate and dry before using the driveway.
Wait at least a week before parking on your new cement driveway to allow the cement to properly harden.
Seal your new cement driveway with an acrylic-based copolymer or penetrating silane solution. Apply the sealant to your cement driveway according to package directions for best results. Reseal your cement driveway every two years or when the driveway's finish starts to show signs of wear.
Clean gas, oil and other stains from your cement driveway as soon as they occur. Wash away simple stains using a garden hose with a spray attachment. Use a power washer to remove stubborn stains from your cement driveway, if necessary.
Remove accumulated snow or ice from your cement driveway using a plastic shovel. Avoid using a metal shovel to when shoveling your driveway as it can scratch the surface of your cement.
Spread a thin layer of coarse builder's sand over your driveway to provide traction in the winter. Avoid using chemical deicing products which can damage your cement driveway.
Contact your local municipal office to find out where the blacktop must be taken for disposal in your area. Some locations require the blacktop to be recycled. A dumpster or heavy duty truck may be used to haul the blacktop to the proper disposal site.
Use the jackhammer or hammer drill with a chisel bit to break up pieces of the asphalt. Cut the blacktop into squares and remove each square. Consult the manual for instructions on using these machines, and considering hiring a worker to use them if you lack experience working with this equipment.
Use the wheelbarrow to move the blacktop pieces to the dumpster.
Remove smaller blacktop pieces with a rake and shovel.
Remove the gravel bed if replacing with a lawn or garden area.
Level the gravel bed with a rake if installing new blacktop, concrete or pavers.
Use your hose to wash down the entire driveway surface, focusing particularly on spaces between any cracks. Let the driveway dry completely.
Use concrete filler within the cracks, then sand or scrape down any excess filler to make it even with the rest of the surface. Let the filler harden completely.
Take your concrete mixer and combine it with a generous amount of water. You'll want the mix to be runny and watery as you are only using it to go over already existing concrete--you are not pouring a new concrete driveway.
Use your shovel to place a one to two-inch layer of concrete over the top of your driveway. Use the concrete trowel to even it all out as you go along. You may want to perform this step in smaller sections--shovel out the concrete and trowel it smooth in one small area, then move on to the next area until the entire driveway is completely resurfaced.
Let the new layer dry for approximately 24 hours, then sweep any debris or dust and hose it down.
Excavate the trench leading up to the side of the sidewalk. Create a pit about 1 foot deeper than the concrete or pavement surface of the driveway and about 6 feet long on the side of the driveway you will work from. Dig a similar pit on the opposite side of the driveway where the borer will exit.
Mount control brackets in the first pit. This keeps the horizontal borer straight as it is advanced under the driveway. Connect the flexible shaft to the boring machine and to one of the boring rods.
Advance the boring machine until the boring rod is completely under the driveway. Disconnect the rod from the flexible shaft and back up the boring machine. Add another boring rod to the first road and reconnect the flexible shaft. Advance the boring machine until these rods are under the driveway.
Repeat the process until the first rod is visible in the pit on the opposite side of the driveway. Connect the conduit or water line to the first boring rod. Use the boring machine to pull the rods back through the tunnel under the driveway.
Clean any loose asphalt or debris out of the crack or hole.
Spread a layer of asphalt emulsion over the surface of the hole or sides of the crack. Asphalt emulsion is a pliable, tar-based coating that will help the cold-patch adhere to the driveway surfaces.
Pour asphalt cold-patch into the hole or crack to a level approximately 3/4 inch above the driveway surface. Cold-patch is a granulated asphalt mixture of the same oil-based material used for the driveway paving.
Tamp the built-up cold-patch mixture into the crack or hole, adding more mix to the surface, as necessary, to compact the mix to level with the adjacent driveway surface. Tamp the surface until it is tightly packed. Allow the patched area to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before driving on it.
Drivewaytips.com recommends a driveway width of 10 to 12 feet to allow one car at a time. Driveways of 8 to 9 feet wide can feel too tight and don't allow passengers to exit the car comfortably.
Space Per Car
You'll need to take length into account when planning your driveway. Leave a footer at the end of your driveway to allow for foot traffic; Drivewaytips.com suggests 18 to 20 feet of length per car and a footer of 6 feet.
If you have a lot of drivers in your house, you'll want to create a double-wide driveway to allow two cars to park side by side. In this case, make your driveway 20 to 24 feet, or double the width of a single driveway.
If your property is surrounded by high brick walls, you'll need extra space for the driveway. Drivewaytips.com recommends 14 feet instead of 10 to 12 feet for drivers with high walls; the extra room allows passengers to safely open car doors without banging them.
When planning your driveway, Askthebuilder.com recommends supporting asphalt or concrete with 6 extra inches of gravel support on each side. This supports your paving material and prevents crumbling in case a guest drives off your driveway and onto the lawn.