- Do I Need to Pre-Drill for Cedar Fence Boards?
- How to Install T-Molding to Concrete
- How to Install Gladiatior GarageWorks GearTrack Channels on Concrete
- How to Secure an Outdoor Bench to Concrete
- How to Fix Battens to Concrete
- How to Drill a Hole in a Flower Pot
- How to Drill Through Metal & Concrete
- How to Drill Holes in a Concrete Backer Board
- How to Insert a Molly Into Concrete
- How to Drill a Hole in Precast Concrete Tees
- How to Measure Drill Presses
- How to Install Lead Zinc Concrete Anchors
- How to Build a Dog Eared Fence Gate
- How to Make Your Own Composter
The General Rule
Essentially in all cases of fence building or repairing, it is recommended that pilot holes be predrilled before installation of the fence boards. In many cases it is also best to countersink the holes to allow for the width of the screw head.
On any given board, a screw that is driven without a pilot hole has a chance to split, leaving the mounted board with an unsightly crack. These cracks in finished boards look amateurish at best and will continue to grow with each passing year.
The solution is to always drill a pilot hole for each screw, regardless of any type of wood it is, to make sure your project is done right and looks good when finished. It may take just a bit longer to change between drill bits and driver bits, but the results will be worth it.
Pilot Hole Size
The best way to determine your pilot hole size is through trial and error. Try using a drill bit about the same width as your screw shank, drill the pilot hole and drive in the screw. If there are no problems when you put in the screw, you are good to go, but if the wood splits slightly, replace your drill bit with the next largest size and use that. Countersink the screw hole to assure a professional and beautiful look to your fence boards.
T-molding is wooden or plastic molding that slides onto a metal track. When you look at the profile of the molding, it looks like a large T -- the top of the T faces outward, and the vertical portion of the T goes into the track. If you need to secure the track of your T-molding to concrete, you can do so with the use of concrete screws.
Place the track for the T-molding against the concrete and mark each mounting hole location. Place the T-molding track off to the side.
Drill a 5/32-inch hole into the concrete at each marked location with a masonry drill bit and a hammer drill. This is the correct pilot size hole for a 3/16-inch concrete screw. Drill at least 1/2 inch deeper than the length of the screws you plan to use.
Vacuum the holes out with a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to remove concrete debris from the hole.
Place the T-molding track onto the concrete and then thread the tips of your 3/16-inch screws with your fingers. Drive the screws into the concrete with a screwdriver.
Slide the T-molding onto the track.
Measure and mark with the pencil where you want the GearTrack channels to be located. Hold the channels in position and use the level to make certain the channels will be mounted level and put pencil marks under the leveled channels. Cut the channels to the lengths necessary for your application and wall space.
Apply construction adhesive to the backs of the channels. Place and hold each channel in position until the adhesive cures enough to keep the channel in position on the wall.
Drill holes with the masonry drill bit every 24 inches through the GarageWorks channel at the grooves in the channel. Two grooves exist in each channel so you will drill two screw holes at each position. Drill each hole 1 3/4 inches deep measured from the groove in the channel -- set the drill bit in the drill so you automatically drill to the correct depth.
Install a masonry screw in each of the holes you have drilled. Screw in the screws until the screw head is flush with the channel's surface.
Set the outdoor bench where you wish to to secure it. Make sure the spot is appropriate prior to drilling any holes.
Place marks through the predrilled slots located at the bottom of each bench leg onto the concrete surface. Slide the bench to the side to expose the marks for easier access when drilling.
Insert a masonry bit into the hammer drill, making sure the bit has the same dimensions as the wedge anchors you are using. Make adjustments to the depth gauge on the hammer drill to the correct depth to prevent over-or underdrilling the holes. Drill the holes ½ inch deeper than the anchors' length.
Drill each hole straight down into the concrete surface to the required depth. Clean out any debris from inside the holes by sliding the spinning masonry bit up and down in the hole or by using forced air from a compressor.
Slide the wedge anchors into the drilled holes. Remove the nut to expose the bolt threads.
Place the bench legs over the threaded bolts. Thread each nut on by hand, making sure they don't bind. Tighten the nuts with a wrench or ratchet until each anchor's wedge feature is actuated.
Lift up on the bench to make sure it is secure. Finish the task by spray-painting the nuts with a rustproof paint the same color as the bench.
Cut the battens to fit the room. All four walls should have a batten, and there should be battens every 20 inches. Battens should be no longer than 6 feet, 6 inches long.
Lay the first batten down on one of the perimeter walls. Lay the level across the batten to see if it sits level across the entire length. If the batten is not level, push a wedge underneath it until the area is level.
Put a masonry bit into your drill that is the same width as the frame fixings. Drill a pilot hole through the batten that enters into the concrete at the two ends of the batten. If you used a wedge, drill a pilot hole through the wedge as well.
Hammer frame fixings into the pilot holes. Put the screwdriver bit on the drill and screw the fixing in the rest of the way.
Repeat Steps 2 through 4 for battens all around the perimeter of the flooring.
Measure across the room from one of the perimeter battens and make marks on the membrane at intervals of 20 inches. Place the interior battens on the marks. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 for each interior batten.
Place a piece of cardboard on the work area, and put the flower pot on top of the cardboard with the top of the pot resting on the cardboard.
Stick masking tape on both the inside and outside of the bottom of the pot in the middle of the pot. Drilling one hole should work fine for drainage, but you can drill up to four holes on the bottom of the pot.
Use a pencil or pen to mark where you would like to place the drainage hole on the flower pot.
Insert the drill bit into the drill. Use a 3/8-inch ceramic, tile or twist drill bit.
Drill the hole by placing the drill bit on the marked spot and engaging the drill. Keep the drill straight and work slowly. Reverse the drill to bring it back up through the hole.
Clean the pot's drill hole. Remove the tape and rinse off any remaining dust.
Drilling Through Metal
Insert a cobalt drill bit into the end of your power drill. If you cannot find a cobalt bit, look for any drill bits designed to make holes through steel.
Apply a small amount of oil to the area of the metal where you plan to drill. The oil will keep the drill bit lubricated and also decrease its temperature.
Place the drill so that it is at a 90-degree angle with the metal.
Set the speed on your drill to the lowest setting, if you have a variable-speed drill.
Press the trigger to begin slowly drilling through the metal.
Drilling Through Concrete
Insert a masonry drill bit into the end of your hammer drill.
Place the drill at a 90-degree angle to the surface of the concrete.
Press the trigger on the drill to begin drilling through the concrete. The hammer action of the drill will force the drill bit into the concrete.
Mark the desired hole locations on the cement backer board using a pencil.
Place the cement backer board on a sturdy pair of sawhorses.
Install the applicable sized hole saw bit into the drill. An adjustable hole saw bit provides various sizes at an economical price.
Drill the hole by placing the pilot bit that is attached to the hole saw bit on the location marked in step 1. The pilot bit helps to stabilize the hole saw bit during the drilling process.
Insert a masonry drill bit, the exact width of the molly bolt, into the hammer drill. For instance, a 1/4-inch molly bolt requires a 1/4-inch drill bit.
Drill a hole into the desired location in the concrete, 1/4 inch deeper than the length of the molly bolt. For optimum strength, the head of the molly bolt must be flush with the concrete surface. Once you have drilled to the desired depth, back out and reinsert the drill bit into the hole repeatedly to clear excess concrete dust. You may need to blow air into the hole to clear it completely.
Insert the molly bolt into the pre-drilled hole in the concrete. It should slide in fairly easily, but may need to be tapped gently with a hammer to insert it fully. Be sure that the nut is already threaded on the molly bolt before it is anchored, in case the threads are damaged by the hammer.
Tighten the molly bolt nut with a wrench to expand the anchor permanently into the concrete.
Put on safety glasses, a dust mask and gloves to protect your eyes, lungs and hands.
Fit a masonry bit into a drill and tighten the chuck to secure the bit into place.
Pour some water on the precast concrete tee where you will be drilling the hole to suppress dust from flying in the air and keep the bit cool.
Hold the drill bit firmly against the precast concrete tee, leaning your weight into the drill. Pull the trigger and begin drilling into the tee. Pour more water onto the tee while drilling as necessary.
Back the drill out once the hole is deep enough into the tee. Hammer a plastic anchor into the drilled hole with a rubber mallet before attaching the fixture.
Determine the machine size. This figure is derived from a measurement of the throat. The opening between the center of the spindle and the closest point of the support column is called the throat. The measurement of the throat is referred to as the swing. Twice the swing is the machine size. A 12 inch drill press has a 6 inch swing. The swing is doubled to show the largest circle a machine drills to center.
Measure the chuck size. This shows the widest bit that can fit into the chuck. Most are 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch.
Measure the vertical capacity. This is the distance between the chuck and the table. It determines how long a drill bit can be and how tall the material can be that it drills.
Position the drill press where you wish to bolt it down. Slip the pencil into the mounting holes in the unit's base and make some pencil marks on the floor. There are four mounting holes, and you will be installing four anchors.
Move the drill press to one side, which will expose the pencil marks.
Using the hammer drill and masonry bit, drill four perfectly vertical holes in the concrete where you made the pencil marks. They should be just slightly deeper than the length of the anchors, and just slightly larger than their diameter. Before you begin drilling, slip on your safety glasses to protect your eyes from any flying bits of masonry.
Using the air compressor and spray nozzle, blow any dust or small bits of concrete out of the holes.
Insert an anchor into each hole. If they prove to be a bit stubborn, tap them in place using the hammer. Place the small block of wood atop the anchor and gently tap it with the hammer. The wood will prevent the hammer from damaging the soft lead.
Move the drill press atop the four holes. Slip a washer over the shaft of each lag screw and insert the screws into the mounting holes in the base of the drill press. Using the socket wrench, drive the lag screws into the anchors. Your drill press is now securely bolted in place with lead zinc concrete anchors.
Measure the space for the gate and how wide the gate needs to be.
Build a frame with 2x4s that fits the width of the gate using screws and the screw bit on a drill.
Drill two small holes, one in the upper corner near the hinges and one in the lower corner near the handle of the gate frame.
Attach an "S" hook in the corner of the frame near where you want the hinges to be.
Attach the turnbuckle of the wire truss cable into the lower corner of the frame on the side where you want the latch to be.
Pull the cable through the "S" hook and pull the cable taut. Tie off the cable and cut it off. Then adjust the turnbuckle so that the pressure isn't too tight.
Measure the dog-eared pickets to find out how many will fill the space where the gate needs to go and how tall each picket needs to be.
Place a picket onto the frame and drill a small hole to help guide the screw into the frame.
Attach the picket to the frame with screws.
Repeat step 5 until the gate's frame is complete.
Attach a gate handle and a set of hinges on what will be the outside of the gate.
Attach the other end of the hinges to a post using hex bolts. You will need a socket wrench to tighten the bolts. You might also need to drill holes to guide the hex bolts into the post.
Attach a latch onto the inside of the gate and hook the piece to either an existing part of the fence or a post to stop, and lock, the gate.
Choose a location for your composter. You'll want to have it near your home so that it's easy to carry vegetable scraps to but also close to the area that you will be using the compost for.
Prepare your large plastic storage bin for use by drilling holes in it. This step is necessary because your composter will need air circulating around its contents so it decomposes faster. The size of the drill bit you use doesn't matter; just drill about 25 or 30 holes 2 inches apart from each other on all sides of the bin, including its bottom and lid.
Place your new composter in your designated area.
Place any leftover vegetable matter in your composter.
Aerate your new composter every other day by giving it a shake.