Starting Seeds Indoors
What You'll Need
A Sunny
Window:
Plants like a southern exposure. If you don't
have a window that will do, consider investing in some
cool-white florescent bulbs.
Containers:
Try all kinds to see what works for you. Make
sure they are clean and have good drainage. If you are
using a fiber or peat pot, soak it well before adding
soil. Dry fiber pots draw moisture away from the soil.
Seeds:
You'll get the best results if you purchase fresh seeds, packaged
for the upcoming growing season. If you have saved seeds that
you purchased last year, test
the germination rate before planting.
Growing
Medium:
Nothing beats a good commercial medium because
it is sterile and free of unwanted weed seeds. If you
want to make your own, here are a couple of good recipes:
| Cornell
Mix 4 quarts of shredded peat moss or sphagnum, 2 teaspoons ground limestone, 4 tablespoons 5-10-10 fertilizer. |
Simple
Mix |
Sowing
Seeds
Fill
pots or flats to within 1/4 inch of the top with your
potting mixture and level the surface. It's a good idea
to water the soil and allow it to drain thoroughly before
sowing the seeds. Make a hole for each seed with your
finger or a pencil. Keep in mind that most seeds need
to be planted four times as deep as the seed is wide.
If your seeds are very fine, cover them with a fine layer
of soil.
Moisture
and Humidity
Germinating
medium should be kept evenly moist but not soaking wet.
Too much moisture will cause the seeds to rot. Use a fine
sprayer to water newly planted seeds and tiny seedlings
or, if possible, water from the bottom. If you can, slip
your pots and flats into plastic bags to keep the humidity
and moisture even and reduce the frequency of watering.
Light
Some
seeds require light to germinate while others prefer total
darkness. Your seed packet should tell you what your seed's
requirements are. Once germinated, all seedlings need
light to develop into strong, healthy plants. Supplement
the natural light with florescent bulbs if necessary.
Seedling
Care
The
care you give your seedlings in the weeks following germination
is critical. Keep it moist, but not dripping. Small pots
and flats dry out quickly, so check it often. If your
seedlings are growing in a windowsill, turn often to encourage
straight stems.
The first two leaves you will see on the plant are not true leaves but food storage cells called cotyledons. Once the first true leaves have developed, it's time to start fertilizing. Choose a good liquid organic fertilizer and use a weak solution once a week.
Hardening
Off
One
week before transplanting your seedlings outdoors, start
to harden them off. This process acclimates the soft and
tender plants, which have been protected from wind, cool
temperatures, and strong sun, to their new environment.
Move the plants to a shady outdoor area at first, and
bring them indoors for the night if night temperatures
are cold. Each day, move them out into the sun for a few
hours, increasing the time spent in the sun each day.
Keep them well watered during this period, and don't place
them directly on the ground if slugs are a problem. Monitor
them closely for insect damage since tender young seedlings
are a delicacy for insects.
Transplanting
Don't
be in a rush to set your plants in the garden. If they
won't withstand frost, be sure all danger of frost has
passed before setting them out. Plan the garden in advance.
Consider companion planting and plant sizes. Make sure
your tall plants won't shade low growing neighbors.
Water the ground outside and the seedlings thoroughly before transplanting. This helps prevent transplant shock. It's preferable to transplant on a cloudy day so strong sun won't wilt your seedlings. Dig a hole about twice the size of the root ball and set the transplant into the hole so the root ball will be covered by 1/4 inch of soil. Press the soil firmly around the roots. A small depression around the plant stem will help trap moisture. Water immediately after transplanting and every day for the first week. Be sure to water deeply so you plants won't develop shallow roots.
