So many winter roots are white. You could substitute others -- artichokes or parsnips -- for those suggested here; for color, add carrots or sweet potatoes. The vegetables are simmered in stock, then stirred in bit by bit in the manner of risotto. They make a warming side dish for four.

&frac12 lb/250 g small turnips
&frac12 lb/250 g celery root
&frac12 lb/250 g firm, waxy potatoes
1&frac12 cups/375 ml veal or chicken stock
3 to 4 tablespoons butter
&frac12 cup/60 g grated Parmesan cheese
salt and ground white pepper

Peel all the vegetables and cut them into ½-inch/1.25-cm dice. Bring the stock to a boil.

Melt half of the butter in a large frying pan and stir in the vegetables. Add half the stock and simmer the vegetables, stirring often, until the stock is absorbed. Add the remaining stock and continue cooking until it is absorbed and the vegetables are tender, 8 to 12 minutes total cooking time. Stir in the remaining butter with the Parmesan cheese, taste, and adjust the seasoning.

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Excerpted from Anne Willan: From My Chateau Kitchen by Anne Willan. Copyright© 2000 by Anne Willan. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.