Preheat the oven to gas Mark 6, 400F, 200C
Use scissors to cur away the thick central stem from the garlic bulbs and slice about 1/4in off the top of each bulb. Pack the bulbs into a small ovenproof dish, tuck half a bayleaf into each bulb, season generously with the salt and pepper, and cover with the sprig of rosemary. Squeeze over the lemon juice and anoint with olive oil. Cover loosely with baking pachment. Cook, basting a couple of times, for 35 minutes or until the garlic is soft and squashy to the touch.
Meanwhile, mash the goat's cheese and stir in the cream to make a smooth, thick paste. Mix in the coriander and chilli.
Allow the garlic to cool slightly and serve it in its dish. The thing to do is to let everyone help themselves to a bulb of garlic and some of the cooking juices. Serve the goats cheese separately, with plenty of hot crusty toast and lemon wedges to squeeze over the top.