Black garden edging has a round hose-like top. This edging is designed to create a barrier between lawns and garden beds. The edging can follow organic curved shapes, and when installed properly, it will not heave during frost or sit high enough on the lawn to be damaged by the lawn mower. It is a good idea to till your garden beds before you plot out your edging. Lay a garden hose around the bed in the shape you want and use landscaping spray paint to mark the lines of the new bed. Measure your line and purchase 10 percent more landscape edging than your measurements.
Rototill or shovel 6 inches below grade. Install your edging with the little "V" bent-up section facing the garden bed. The edging should be deep enough that only half of the rounded top is above grade. If your bed is longer than 20 feet, you will have a seam where two pieces are joined together. Use a connector to join your pieces and make sure half of the connector is on each side of the seam.
Install your edging stakes. Place the pointed end of a stake into the "V" at the bottom of the edging. The 90-degree bend in the stake should face down. Angle the stake about 25 degrees. This will look nearly horizontal. Hammer the stake by hitting the 90-degree bent portion of the stake with a hammer. Drive each stake in until the bent angle touches the edging. Install four stakes per 20 feet of edging. Your first and last stake should be 3 inches from the end or seam. Space your other stakes evenly, approximately every 5 feet.
Add soil back from the garden side of the trench. Fill in the hole and use a soil compactor along the edging. Fill in the lawn side with soil and stomp it down with your foot. Water the edging once you are finished and the soil will begin to compact.